by Mags Kavanaugh AskMags.com, a Stylists 911
1. Chelate all new clients with Malibu Crystal Gel Treatment under the dryer, shampoo with with the UnDoGoo Shampoo, it cleanses the hair of medication, products build up and minerals which can interfere with chemical processes. This not only makes the clients hair clean so you can safely do chemical services on them, but it makes you a little money, and who doesn’t want that?
2. Shampoo the scalp, not the mid shaft & ends and condition the mid shaft & ends not the scalp area since your body produces an Acid Mantle (your hairs natural conditioner and skin protectant) within 7 hours the Acid Mantle comes back onto the scalp area, never pile the hair up on itself always keep the hair long, as the cuticles will rip into the healthy parts of the hair.
3. Never rub the hair with a towel- pat the hair dry or wrap hair up in a towel like a turban. This makes the hair keep shiny, so never rub!
3. Use the correct conditioner or deep conditioner for the hair texture- fine hair needs protein, medium hair needs both protein & moisture and coarse hair needs moisture.
4. Apply a leave in
conditioning leave in spray ( I use and recommend the 13 In 1 from California Glam) and use a
dimethicone product to seal the hair & act as the “F” Layer (natural
F layer protects the hair from external damage but is lost after any chemical
services). The leave in helps to detangle the hair while the dimethicone
product like Argon Oil will protect the hair as that has a natural heat
5 Use a trichology comb when combing the hair out. Starting at the bottom of the hair and working up, comb all the way through the hair each time. If you hit a tangle, stop, open it SIDEWAYS to release the knot. NEVER use a brush on wet hair, since it will grab a tangle but you won’t feel it, and you’ll end up ripping through the knot instead.
6. Treat wet hair like a silk blouse, never pull on it or rough it up in any way. Use a heat protectant spray or Argan Oil spray on the hair before you dry it. Dry the hair on a MEDIUM heat setting but high air flow and dry the hair 75% before using a brush, this allows the hair to harden again, so you won’t snap hair when pulling with a brush.
7. For fine hair use a mousse for volume, medium hair can use gel & mousse and for coarse hair using a gel gives better lift then a mousse.
8. Make sure your clients sleep on Satin Pillow case . Cotton doesn’t let the hair slide, it will rip up the cuticle layers, taking away the shine of the hair, Put the hair up on top of your head at night with a scrunchy.
9. Hair is built like a rope, it’s wounded up in coils upon itself and a split end is the hair unraveling. Regular haircuts are crucial as hair starts to unravel after just a few weeks. Fine hair needs to be cut every 4 to 6 weeks, Medium hair 6 to 8 weeks and for coarse hair every 8 weeks.
10. For longer hair clients that like to wear their hair up, teach them to vary their style and where they put their hair up, teach to put it at the crown, next time put it up at the occipital bone and then next nape, this way hair won’t get dented which will cause breakage.