CoValence, Inc.- Sept Issue


September  2007

We hope you find the following newsletter informative and helpful – if you ever have any questions, comments, suggestions or concerns about the content, please do not hesitate to give us a call or drop us an email.


CTFA sets to launch "Cosmetic Ingredient Safety Review" site

In response to years of being targeted by private interest groups, the CTFA makes information easily accessible to consumers. The Cosmetic Ingredient Safety Review puts scientific data in terms that can be easily understood in an effort to halt worries and fears generated by alarming misstatements. The panel of unbiased professionals evaluates suspect ingredients and publishes their findings on the site as "ingredient safety reviews" allowing informed consumers to make their own decisions about the products they use.

Opponents of the Cosmetic Industry emphasize the FDA’s inability to regulate or require companies to do safety testing of their cosmetic products before being released to the marketplace, what is not considered with this argument is the expense taken by cosmetics companies and manufacturers to research and evaluate ingredients that can deliver on the promises made to the consumer safely.


It appears cosmetic formulators are in a lose – lose predicament. Firstly, being battered by the "false claims" statements of these groups and secondly for trying to create technologically advanced formulas (with complex ingredient selections) that deliver on these promises while being scrutinized often inaccurately through generalized ingredient misinformation. Here is a simplified example of ingredient spin and misinformation: Water can be classified as a hydrating and dehydrating element on the skin! (Here’s the catch, it all has to do with temperature and exposure frequency. Hot water dries the skin while frequent exposure to water strips the skin of moisturizing oils)


This information would come as quite a shock to the millions of Americans who are spending 8.3 billion dollars a year on bottled water to re-hydrate their bodies. Would this then mean we should all stop drinking water? Is water therefore a detriment to the human body because it has drying properties? No. It is the application of these facts that dictate the relative outcome and as you can see, the effects of internally ingested water compared to water applied topically to the skin can produce very different effects.  There are variances and contradictions in the industry which is why it is vital to synergize Science with Nature for the most efficacious results.


 The previous example demonstrates how easily it is to look at selective components of information and dissect it in favor of your position. This same process is used when looking at ingredients in relation to their safety. Often the application of data is twisted to substantiate claims and reflect their position or cause. It is this way of thinking that has the CTFA fighting back. Misinformation in the truth reflects badly on our industry, which is why we as a collective group are under attack and need to define clearly for our end users our interest in their safety.



Are Anti-age Strategies Natural?


Definition of Natural:

1 : based on an inherent sense of right and wrong
2 a : being in accordance with or determined by


31 Million Americans believe in aging naturally but what exactly does aging naturally mean? In reviewing the definition of the word natural, it appears as though one could accurately define it as a personal philosophy that would fit the needs of each individual. The introduction of "naturally" based ingredient systems certainly does open the door to new alternatives as do non invasive cosmetic procedures. Most Americans agree that plastic surgery is not a natural option. It is for this reason perhaps that 48 million Americans plan to purchase anti-aging remedies within the next year. This estimation equates to 4 billion dollars per year being spent on corrective cosmetics.


The 65% of Americans surveyed who plan to purchase topical products also said they believed in aging naturally. This indicates that supportive, preventative and corrective care strategies are believed to be a natural choice in treating the signs of aging. This approach is rooted in the belief of supplementation as a means of encouraging healthy aging. In correlation, it is very much like taking vitamins and other natural supplements internally to ward off disease as most Americans have a less than healthy diet. Even with the most balanced dietary intake, only 1% of ingested nutrients affect the skin. For this reason, topical supplementation is the best way to care for your skins hydration, nutritional and functional needs.


Aging concerns are no longer reserved to those visible wrinkles and loss of firmness we will all experience. Americans are no longer waiting to see the effects of time on their complexions before treating. Preventative aging care is exploding with possibility and is in very high demand. Sun blocking formulations now provide ancillary ingredients to treat the skin more comprehensively while protecting from damage. Peptides and antioxidants are also widely represented as they affect the skin in both preventative and corrective ways. Collagen and Elastine continue to be key focal points to consumers who recognize the need for repairing previous damage while holding off further deterioration. Copper Peptides, Phenolic Phytochemicals and Carotenoids that can correct Collagen cross linkage in the skin continue to be highly sought after ingredients.


Reversing and preventing the signs of aging are being addressed within all the skin types, as well is in every ethnic background. Technology and continued research in these areas will increase as demand for this niche is already in place. Skin lightening, acne therapy and cellular regeneration remain at the top of the list of corrective skin care needs right behind wrinkles and loss of firmness as they are present within any skin type or ethnicity.


Methods of anti-aging that do not require significant downtime or plastic surgery seem to be acceptable as "natural" modalities in American society. However, it is also important to point out that formulations that treat the skin comprehensively will have the competitive edge in a society that believes "more is better".




REMINDER: Please consult your Development Strategist if you plan to expand your business to overseas markets. Due to different labeling requirements per country region it is very likely that your labels will need to be changed. We understand first hand that changing labels can be an arduous task; however our experienced staff is prepared to help you every step along the way.





CoValence is using a new LITE ORGANIC JOJOBA OIL.   It’s actually a clear white as opposed to the usual yellow oil.  It’s a beautiful and versatile oil for face and body products.  Jojoba is one of those "what’s old is new" types of ingredients.  The molecular structure of jojoba is quite unique as it more similar to oils that naturally form in mammals as opposed to plants.  It does not oxidize easily and it’s non-comedogenic. 



 This is the active natural form of lipoic acid and it is the one we use.   If it doesn’t read this way, it is  not the Chirally-Correct form.   Use of alpha lipoic is well-known for a number of years in skincare.  We agree on the importance of it due to its key role in the smooth functioning of the cell’s Mitochondria.  The wider availability of the chiral "R" form is what’s new.



In 1995 CoValence introduced our ANTI- A.G.E. COMPLEX. The complex stood for "Advanced Glycation End" products that our clients incorporated into their products.    


In 2007 the Dr. Brandt brand introduces an anti-glycation serum; The magazine copy reads "welcome to the new it treatment".  New??   Good for him for recognizing a key concept.  But "the new it treatment" concept was introduced 12 years ago by CoValence.   Of course, he’s not the only one that has "discovered" this concept.   We have nothing against any of these brands and we certainly support the concept now just as we did in 1995.   This is just an FYI to you and for you to be aware of if your clients ask about it. 


Aminoguanidine is one of the key ingredients being discussed by the likes of Estee Lauder recently and it is exactly what CoValence introduced in 1994 as the key topical tool against A.G.E. 


Glycation is the process in the skin, of reactions between sugars and proteins that lead to intramolecular cross-links called "Advanced Glycation End" products.  This cross-linking throws off key enzymatic processes and harms their ability to protect from oxidative stress, which allows inflammation to set in.  The final impact of this process is for the collagen and elastin proteins to stiffen and lose elasticity.  And, no surprise – wrinkles!  It isn’t just age that does this; health conditions can trigger the same reactions also.  We love sugar and oxygen, but in the skin, it can be a lethal combination. 


Metalloproteinase inhibitor ingredients would also have synergistic effects for helping prevent the cross-linking of the collagen, as will other ingredients that help mediate the damage of reactive oxygen species.  We’ll talk on these issues more in future SKINsiders.  But just know that we always examine these issues and how they impact on the formulas we create with our clients.    


We thank you for being a loyal customer! If you require any further assistance, please feel free to contact us – we strive to exceed your expectations.

CoValence, Inc





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