"WHAT’S OLD IS NEW?"
LIGHT ORGANIC JOJOBA OIL:
CoValence is using a new LITE ORGANIC JOJOBA OIL. It’s actually a clear white as opposed to the usual yellow oil. It’s a beautiful and versatile oil for face and body products. Jojoba is one of those "what’s old is new" types of ingredients. The molecular structure of jojoba is quite unique as it more similar to oils that naturally form in mammals as opposed to plants. It does not oxidize easily and it’s non-comedogenic.
This is the active natural form of lipoic acid and it is the one we use. If it doesn’t read this way, it is not the Chirally-Correct form. Use of alpha lipoic is well-known for a number of years in skincare. We agree on the importance of it due to its key role in the smooth functioning of the cell’s Mitochondria. The wider availability of the chiral "R" form is what’s new.
In 1995 CoValence introduced our ANTI- A.G.E. COMPLEX. The complex stood for "Advanced Glycation End" products that our clients incorporated into their products.
In 2007 the Dr. Brandt brand introduces an anti-glycation serum; The magazine copy reads "welcome to the new it treatment". New?? Good for him for recognizing a key concept. But "the new it treatment" concept was introduced 12 years ago by CoValence. Of course, he’s not the only one that has "discovered" this concept. We have nothing against any of these brands and we certainly support the concept now just as we did in 1995. This is just an FYI to you and for you to be aware of if your clients ask about it.
Aminoguanidine is one of the key ingredients being discussed by the likes of Estee Lauder recently and it is exactly what CoValence introduced in 1994 as the key topical tool against A.G.E.
Glycation is the process in the skin, of reactions between sugars and proteins that lead to intramolecular cross-links called "Advanced Glycation End" products. This cross-linking throws off key enzymatic processes and harms their ability to protect from oxidative stress, which allows inflammation to set in. The final impact of this process is for the collagen and elastin proteins to stiffen and lose elasticity. And, no surprise – wrinkles! It isn’t just age that does this; health conditions can trigger the same reactions also. We love sugar and oxygen, but in the skin, it can be a lethal combination.
Metalloproteinase inhibitor ingredients would also have synergistic effects for helping prevent the cross-linking of the collagen, as will other ingredients that help mediate the damage of reactive oxygen species. We’ll talk on these issues more in future SKINsiders. But just know that we always examine these issues and how they impact on the formulas we create with our clients.