The Do’s & Don’t for DP Blonding
By Shawn Sanner
Double Processing the hair is not nearly as tedious as we may think. To do excellent Double Processing it takes knowledge of the hair, the techniques and most importantly the awareness of minor over-sights in our applicative skills which can easily add up to the difference between a great gossamer blonding and one that falls very short of perfection. When you learn to pay attention to these “details” you’ll find lightening and toning to be very rewarding as well as profitable. I’ve composed a very simple article of DO’s & DON’TS, they are as follows:
When considering a DP for a client DO consider that particular customer’s scalp. Always check for irritations, or breaks of the skin of the scalp. In fact, anything that appears even slightly suspicious to you while examining the scalp DON’T proceed with the lightening service until the clients head and hair return to a normal healthy condition.
Do try to avoid preliminary shampooing before the lightening procedure. Shampoo if the hair is excessively oily, soiled or has build up needing removal, also mineral deposits, well water, anything you feel might be creating a barrier between the hair and the bleach. Use a gentle removal shampoo and or treatment….do not stimulate, rub vigorously or use your nails for the cleansing. Only the pads of your fingertips, and keep it very very light with little or no pressure on the scalp. Don’t proceed if there is a metallic build up present, or any type of coating you could not remove easily. DO have your client wait until any or all possible build up is removed from the hair. Don’t ever use hot water. Do use cool or tepid water throughout ANY bleaching procedure.
Do re-read once, twice as many times as you have to…the mixing and application instructions from the company’s lightener product you are using. DON’T ever take anything for granted, even though you may think “Oh I’ve done this so many times I know it by heart!” READ the INSTRUCTIONS AGAIN!
DO take just a few extra moments and apply a protective cream to your client’s forehead, ears and nape of neck. Doing so will offset any burning, irritation or discomfort for most customers. DO add Sweet-n-Low if you feel the need.
Do make entirely certain you have gathered all necessary materials you will need close at hand…create a DP Blonding “checklist” of sorts, so you are prepared. Your partings should be clipped and everything ready to go before you mix your bleach. Don’t….(let me do this again)….DON’T allow your bleaching mixture to stand any longer than is absolutely necessary. Do make sure your mixture is of the correct consistency and will adhere to just only the area you are retouching. DO work quickly and methodically but be neat and do not overlap your mixture. IF you are a bit slower in your application, no problem, you may mix just enough bleach to do one quarter of your four sections at a time, or do the back half…and then remix again for the front half of the head. Whichever works for you. Don’t dawdle in your application. DO stay with the client. Don’t let your mixture dry out…if it dries, then its no longer working for you. When retouching a DP blonde DO make sure the bleaching mixture does not run onto the previously lightened hair. This may happen due to your mixture being too runny OR all bleaches swell…know the product you are working with to compensate!!!! This means if you have a bleach which you know will swell maybe just a 1/16th of an inch…then allow for that in your touch up…go from the scalp to 1/16″ from the previously lightened hair. DO always start your lightening process in the MOST RESISTANT or DARKEST area of the clients hair. Dont EVER take sections for a DP as you would for a tint. DP sectioning is always paper thin to allow proper coating of bleach.
DON’T PUSH bleach onto partings, but rather, just “lay it” down on the new growth gently with your brush, if you are using a bottle method, Don’t feather the bleach outward from the partline with your thumb, this causes entirely too much spreading of product and will cause overlap. DO keep your gloves wiped with a towel at all times, you don’t want globs or smears of bleach to transfer to the previously lightened hair. Do spot bleach however, if you see discolorations or darker spots from your last touch up….this is a great time to do some quick corrective work!!!! Don’t lighten the finer lanugo hair or delicate hair at the front of the hairline or at the sides of the hairline…clip the more delicate hair out of the way…when your bleaching gets to about 2/3’s of your desired stage of lightening, then apply the lightener to the finer areas, it will quickly catch up to the bulk of the hair being lightened.
DO watch very carefully the dispersement of pigment (the lightening process). DO ALWAYS de-colorize ONE HALF to ONE shade lighter than the desired tint or shade of toner you want to apply. This is very very important. For Silver, Platinum or any kind of ultra pastel or gossamer toning, always bleach to the palest most delicate yellow, anything more in yellow pigment still left in the hair will cause an off result in your target toning shade. Don’t cut your bleaching period short just because the client has a natural light level of hair!!! Not even if the hair is WHITE!! You must make sure the bleaching product is allowed to remain on the surface of the hair for at least 45 minutes. Toners need POROSITY to effectively seat themselves and to hold within the hair. On darker types of hair bleaching may take as long as two hours to effectively disperse pigment. Don’t promise ultra dark natural levels white or silvery results the first application. DO keep bleach on at least 45 minutes on light to white hair and Don’t remove bleach from darker pigmented hair until you have reached your TARGET stage of lightening. Once your perfect stage of de-colorization has been achieved (and of course, you’ve tested a strand or section to make sure) DO remove with lukewarm or cool water. Very hot water is actually harmful and damaging to palest bleached locks. After rinsing…double check to make sure you have rinsed every bit of the lightener from the hair, shampoo lightly and check yet again to make sure no traces of bleach remain.
DO condition the freshly lightened hair to create an anchor for the toner and to even out porosity. Bleach allowed to remain in the hair prior to toning will cause spotty and uneven toning, and further damage of the hair. DO always handle bleached hair with the utmost of care. Don’t brush or use a comb with fine teeth to detangle lightened hair. Always start at the bottom of the length of the lightened hair, separate gently with fingers if need be…and then slowly work your way up the length. Congratulations!!! You are now ready for your toner.