Universal Color Rules – JBuzz

Universal Color Rules

JBuzz and I were talking and she asked me to post some of the Universal Rules of Color that are un-changeable and apply to ANY colorline, no matter what the brand. So, here they are. Since I go blank when I post, I’ll add to this as I think of more that I know.

  1. Tint cannot lift artifical color reliably – so, treat that as never.
  2. You cannot, ever, go more than 2 levels lighter without uncontrolled warmth. There is no way to get a truly ash shade when lifting 3 levels – it will be neutral-warm at best. And lifting 4 or 5 levels it will always be strongly warm no matter how much drabbing ash you put in your formula.
  3. When darkening any hair, natural or lightened/tinted, hair more than 2 levels, you must Colorprime/ Fill  to replace the missing pigments at the level you intend to color to.
  4. To create a truly ash brown, with absolutely no warmth, on natural Levels 1, 2, 3 or 4, you must prelighten and tone.
  5. Ash colors look lighter than warm colors at Level 6 and above. Ash colors look darker than warm colors at level 5 and below.
  6. Naturally dark hair cannot be bleached to Pale-Yellow with only one lightening treatment. Two or more are always required.  No more than 2 a day!.
  7. Retouches are technically corrective-color situations, so treat them as such.
  8. Damaged hair rejects yellow and red pigments and strongly holds onto blue pigments.
  9. Natural hair rejects blue pigments and strongly holds onto red and yellow pigments.



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