Highlighting Workshop Dimensionalizing Lowlights
Effect: Lowlights add depth and dimension to highlighted, tinted or naturally light hair. The following method is very effective and predictable. It allows you to control the amount of dimension desired.
When to Use: Add lowlights when the hair becomes over-lightened through consecutive highlightings or environmental exposure.
Sectioning: This method of lowlighting is applied once all of the highlighting foils are placed in the head and are processing.
Method: Once the head is fully wrapped with highlighting foils, mix a demi- or semi-permanent haircolor.
Beginning at the top of each section, apply the lowlight mixture with gloved hands to the sections of hair in between the foils. These are the hair strands that are not being highlighted.
The amount of lowlighting desired is determined by the
number of sections that you apply color.
If you apply color to every section you will have a 50 percent reduction in the overall lightness. Apply to every other section for a 25 percent reduction. Every third section will give approximately a 10 percent reduction in lightness.
Apply the color to the entire strand to be lowlighted and
continue to the next lowlight until complete.
The lowlights should process at least 10 minutes. Be sure to
allow the appropriate time while the highlights are processing.
Once the highlights and lowlights have fully processed,
remove foils, rinse, shampoo then condition.- Mags
Here’s a post from JBuzz that she answered the lowlighting & highligting very well, thank JBuzz.
|jbuzz, what happens when the lowlite formula you are using it pretty dark, and just coloring a section of hair that is left out would be too much dark in the hair …. then how do YOU incorporate the lowlite into that?|
Buster to answer your questions: I do not really ever have a problem with formulating too dark with lowlites because I use Shades and really understand how dark or lite Redken Shades goes on. I usually only put the darker color into the surface hair like Mags explained above. In most cases with my clients I have them do two partial foils between each full foil and rotate that pattern over the months. Usually I only lowlite on the 2nd partial foil visit, and because it is a partial, I only need to lowlite a small amount because it is already darker underneath the hair due to natural growout. By the time my client comes back for their full foil, there is enough natural darkness that I do not ever lowlite. UNLESS…I am working with blondes and then I will often lowlite 1 or 2 levels deeper like L9’s and 12 level alternated with maybe an occasional 7 thrown in here and there.
When I foil…I pack the head with foil all over. 1/4 inch partings everywhere even steven…this always gives me a very natural look. I have clients that want chunky too. But over the years I have found that most of the customers I do, want an easy growout without a strong line of demarkation and yet they still want their hair to be noticable. If I’m not sure about what they are looking for, I will ask if them if they want their hair to “whisper, yell or SHOUT” with color. Most want between whisper and yell.
Well….whisper, yell or shout tell me ….subtle, visibly noticable or drama.
Whisper…fine natural weaves close to NL maybe just a hint of bleached brightness. Soft golds and warm tones.
Noticable…line of demarkation is expected. Pale blone with a few slices mixed in with the weaves. Cooler tones with some contrast colors.
Shout…chunky, pale and lots of contrast or vibrant colors.
Yes thin fine weaves. I often slice in back underneath the surface hair to save time. You can also slice at ear sections and be fine. My weave sections are appoximately 1/8 inch in thickness and then 1/4 inch of hair is the section that is left out. I may “say” even-steven…but I’m random with my patterns somewhat. I’m even-steven because I’m anal about neatness and staying within my foil sections. When I first started foiling this way (basic foil pattern that I borrowed from basic perm wraps and improvised), I thought they were alot of work. But I can do a full head this way in two hours from start to finish on any thickness of hair. I’m not speed-demon fast because of my belief in neatness as I go. But then when you see the pictures I post; well that is the result; a very natural look. I just prefer natural (meaning lots of color but not too chunky) and seem to draw this type of clientele. While other hairdressers love the chunky and bold better. – JBuzz