Demi-Permanent Information

Types Of Demi-Permanent Colors.


I will be adding to this article as I gather more information on each brand and type of demi-permanent color.





Woman getting color application






There are, generally, two types of Demi-Permanent on the market today – those alkalized with MEA – Monoethanolamine, and those alkalized with AMP – Amino Methyl Proponal. Of the two ingredients, AMP is by far the lesser in agressiveness and gentleness. AMP is so gentle that it need not even be shampooed from the hair – Rinsing and acidifying/conditioning will suffice. MEA is a stronger alkalizer and is an ester, which means it is harder to get out of the hair and if not shampooed completely away, it will re-alkalize in the hair every time the hair contacts water. MEA is hydrophobic, and thus resists water and rinsing away.

AMP or MEA (or even both together) can be used in a Demi-Permanent no-lift color or they may be used in a permanent color, either alone or with ammonia, to provide lift – Both AMP and MEA are capable of producing lift of natural haircolor – the pH of the formula and the volume of developer are what determines their lifting ability. So, a no-lift Demi-Permanent, which usually employs a 7 to 10 volume developer, can be made to deposit permanently simply by using a higher volume of developer – 15 or 20 Volume. With the higher volume of developer, a mild amount of lift, perhaps ½ level, may occur. The addition of heat will also tend to make a demi deposit more permanently. NOTE, however, that you cannot use heat unless stated by the manufacturer – the same with differing volumes of developer. Unless the manufacturer says it is OK, do not do it.

MEA and AMP are also used in some bleaches to augment the ammonia and keep the pH high and buffered against dropping. Clairol used AMP in their old Ultra-Blue bleach to reduce the amount of ammonia required – with the AMP added, Ultra-Blue needed only 0.25% ammonia and thus had no perceptable ammonia odor. For whatever reason, Ultra-Blue is no longer made for the professional market.

Another use for AMP and MEA are as resin neutralizers to soften the liquid plastics in hairsprays and setting lotions. Most hairsprays have a pH from 5 to around 8 because the plastics perform best at these levels.


v      Logics Imprints No-Lift Color Gloss

v      Clairol Radiance No-Lift Colorgloss

v      Clairol Second Nature No-Lift Corrective Color

Chromastics Demi-Permanent



v Logics Attitudes Long Lasting Semi-Permanent Colourant

v      Clairol Compliments Demi-Permanent Gel Color Crème

v      Wella Color Charm Demi-Permanent

v      Matrix Color Sync


The other type of Demi-Permanent is the Bivalent color – color that is a permanent or demi-permanent depending on the developer used or mixing or processing. The mere absence of ammonia does not make a demi-permanent color line. It’s the no-lift aspect and the slightly less-than-permanent deposit that makes a demi. Many bivalent color lines, like Compagnia Del Colore, use a special developer to create a demi-permanent out of their standard permanent color line. The developer is mixed in a 2-to-1 ratio, which automatically dilutes the low-level of ammonia even further – dropping it to less than .5% in most cases – the low volume of peroxide used in the developer, 7 to 10 volume, produces minimal oxidation of the color molecules, thus turning the permanent color into a full-fleged demi-permanent color line.






Written by Mags Kavanaugh {mosimage}
Tuesday, 07 March 2006

deposits color to the outside only, lasts until it is shampooed, they have certified colors or cationic dyes – ROUX RINSES, COLOR CONDITIONERS & SHAMPOOS

SEMI-PERMANENT: is a self-penetrating color that washes out after 6 to 12 shampoos,it does NOT need peroxide to work, contains no ammonia- – PRIZMS – LOVING CARE – JAZZING – PRIZMS PLUS

DEMI-PERMANENT#1: combination of deposit-only permanent (oxidative) dye & semi-permanent dye (direct dye), uses 7 to 12 vol. peroxide, contains no ammonia, lasts 4 to 6 weeks

DEMI-PERMANENT- #2 – LONG LASTING SEMI-PERMANENT:also know as deposit only / no lift color, has the same dye as permanent color (oxidative) contains no ammonia, uses 9 to 12 vol. peroxide, it doesn”t lift the natural haircolor and lasts 6 to 8 weeks

PERMANENT: has a oxidative dye that also uses ammonia and peroxide to lift & deposit the new color, going deep into the cortex. The union of the primaries, couplers, ammonia and peroxide produces a colored molecule that starts out small and gets larger in size and that is what makes it permanent .
I’ve done this list in the order of staying power so you know when to pick each one. Happy Coloring!

Last Updated ( Monday, 19 March 2007 )
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3 Comments on “Demi-Permanent Information”

  1. I have a client who is a high lift blonde. She now wants to go to a honey blonde because her hair looks white and unattractive. New client. Her natural hair level is I think a level 5/6 and less than 50% gray. Should I use a gold filler on her shaft using instacure and 9g and then go over the whole head with a 509n and 9g? need help with this one

    1. Hi I’d recommend you fill and color with the Matrix Color Sync 10 WN, this both fills & colors at the same time and will give that warm golden tone.
      Apply the 10WN for 15 minutes, then rinse only, no shampoo and then check it, it might be poerfect but if she wants more depth, use the Color Sync 8N + 10 Gold in equal parts for 20 minutes.

      1. what about her root area? will it be more even. I never used Color Sync do you use 10Vol. or 20Vol. or do have their own solution? So afraid to mess this up. I knew I had to fill to get color molecules back into the shaft but new growth will it match? After you rinse and check then do you go back and do the root area and pull it through?

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