How To Treat Hair!
As a Trichologist, I see a lot of damage and many times that damage can be because of stylists that have not learned the proper way to treat hair. In our industry we can help or hurt hair, make sure you always help the hair, treat it like a silk blouse, don’t wring it, rough it up, pull on it, brush when wet or comb when dry. Don’t put wet hair on other wet hair, don’t bunch it up on itself, keep it long.
It’s part of your job as a Cosmetologist to recommend products to help keep the hair in shape for chemical services.All chemically treatment hair should get weekly deep conditioning treatments, whether you or your client does them, you have to put back in what chemicals take out.
Trichology is the scientific study of the hair and treatment of the hair. Trichology is a 4 to 6 year course on top of your regular Cosmetology license. There many good schools around the world.
One thing you are taught is how fragile hair really is and how easily it can damaged by things like taking a towel and rubbing the hair with it, that will rip up the cuticle layers and make the shine of the hair go away.
Learn to comb wet hair FROM THE BOTTOM UPWARDS, so you don’t pull tangles into more tangles. There are special Trichology combs made by Membo just for this.
Use a detangling Leave-In Protector Conditioner, it helps seal the layers and gives the hair shine.
Rinse all color with warm water, never cold, cold will trap the peroxide into the hair, you need to get that out or the color will continue to fade.
When you do a fresh new perm, dry it under the hood dryer and then use a curling iron to give it style, pulling on a new perm with a brush while it’s wet will help to soften & relax the curl, so dry first and then style..
Have your client sleep on a satin pillow case, cotton doesn’t let the hair slide, it will rip at the cuticle layers roughing them up and making the hair tangley.
If your client gets any type of chemicals done to their hair, then they need a deep conditioner treatments once a week or once every 2 weeks, this way you are putting back in what chemicals are taking out. I sell the client a treatment they can do themselves, it’s their homework!
Trims are very neccessary, fine hair should get a trim every 4 to 6 weeks, medium hair, every 6 to 7 weeks and coarse hair every 7 to 8 weeks, no more. Hair is built like a rope and will start to unravel at that 6 week period, that’s what a split end is. If you don’t trim the hair, the split will move up the hairshaft, cause pieces to break off which makes the split go higher until the hair falls out at the scalp.
There’s a special Trichology cut I do for long haired clients in which I cut their split ends off on dry hair by rolling it over my fingers, slowly sliding my fingers down until I can cut all the splits I see, it takes about 1 to 2 hours to do this type of cut and then I do charge more than a normal haircut.
So when the hair is wet, treat it like a silk blouse, don’t twist, wring or pull on the hair. Comb from the bottom and work up, do not use a brush, as the brush will rip thru the hair before you feel the tangle that you are trying to remove causing more damage.