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E

Eau de Parfum. Women’s fragrance with a lighter scent concentration than perfume (8 to 15%). Can be used in a spray application.

Eau de Toilette. See Toilet Water

Eczema. Acute or chronic weeping, crusting and inflammatory skin conditions. Eczema is more the description of a symptom than of a disease.The word has become synonymous with dermatitis.

EDC. Eau de Cologne. See Cologne

EDP. See Eau de Parfum

EDT. See Toilet Water

EDTA. An artificial chemical that is used as an antioxidant and as a "complexing" agent in shampoos, which means that it binds metallic irons so that the surfactants can work more effectively.

Elder Flowers. Elder flower has been used for generations to keep complexion soft. It both tones and protects the skin.

Emollients. Prevent water loss and have a softening and soothing effect on the skin. They can be natural, like almond oil, or manufactured, like mineral oil.

Emulsion. A stable combination of oil and water phases accomplished with the use of surfactants.

Epidermis. The outer layer of skin.

Essential Fatty Acids. Sometimes known as vitamin F, these substances can't be manufactured by the body and must be consumed in the diet. There are three types: linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic. The primary fatty acids fulfill many functions in our bodies. They lubricate, aid in the transportation of oxygen to the cells, and help thicken the blood.

Essential Oils. Oily liquids obtained from plants. Complex mixtures of alcohols, ketones, phenols, acids, ethers, aldehydes, esters, oxides, and sulfur compounds (among others). They're also called volatile oils, ethereal oils, essences, or absolutes.

Ethanol (or ethyl alcohol). Colorless, vaporizable liquid. Has a burning taste. Well-known to most of us as the active ingredient in alcoholic beverages. Commonly called simply "alcohol," although there are many other kinds of alcohols. Ethanol is widely used in cosmetics as a solvent and as an antibacterial agent. As a preservative, it's effective at concentrations of 15% to 20%. It's an antitoxin in concentrations of 60% to 70%, with a bactericidal effect within 45 seconds. It's also used in acne treatments and in rinses for oily hair. Ethanol absorbs water and thus can be very drying in fast-drying skin lotions (at concentrations of 15%); the lotions need to include glycerols and vegetable oils to minimize the drying effect. Provokes a late allergic reaction in some people when used topically. Taken orally, ethanol is toxic in doses above 80g. Ethanol is often purposely made poisonous by the addition of methanol and it is then known as SDA (specially denatured alcohol).

Ethyl Acetate. Compound made from acetic acid and ethyl alcohol used as a solvent and in nail polish and nail polish removers. May irritate skin.

Eucalyptus Extract. Stimulating and antiseptic oil. Aids in the formation of healthy skin tissue. Very healing.

Exfoliant. A product used to shed the superficial cells of the outer layer of skin.

Exfoliate/Exfoliant. To remove the outermost layer of dead skin cells with a scrub or cleanser.

Ext. D&C. When followed by a color, means that the FDA has certified it as safe for use only in drugs and in cosmetics used externally and not around the eyes or inside the mouth. It is not safe for foods.


F

Fats. Acquired from animal fat, oil seeds, or fruit pulp. They are used as lotion or salve in cosmetics. They can be solid, semisolid, or liquid.

Fatty Acids. Organic oils found in vegetable and animal fats. Excellent skin emollients and an important part of the diet.

Fatty Alcohols. Thick to semi-thick syrup-like liquids. Give high emolliency. Can be natural or man-made. Sometimes used in hair and skin-conditioners, creams, lotions, and conditioning shampoos.

FDA. The Food and Drug Administration. The federal agency responsible for managing the safety and strength of all foods and drugs, and cosmetics sold in the US.

FD&C. When preceded by the name of a color, the Food and Drug Administration has certified the coloring safe for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics.

Flacon. A small bottle with a stopper used to hold perfume, usually a decorative or collectible item.

Fluid Ounces. Unit of volume in the U.S. system of weights and measures. Used to measure liquid, one fluid ounce is equal to 29.57 milliliters.

Fluoride. Fluoride is toxic. It is however used in toothpaste as an antienzyme ingredient to slow down tooth decay. It is added to the water supply in some states and sites.

Formaldehyde. Colorless, harsh, irritating substance that is found in many preservatives. It is severely toxic when inhaled or swallowed. 44% of all people whose skin is exposed to it get an irritating reaction. It is used in shampoos at concentrations of .1% to .2%. Methanol is sometimes added to formaldehyde at a 15% concentration to prevent polymerization.

Fragrance. Sweet pleasing odor used to enhance products of all kinds, especially in the beauty industry. May be used in differing concentrations for various products.

Fragrance-Free. No added fragrances; just the natural aroma of the ingredients.

Fragrance Oil. A concentrated product used in the creation of perfume, cologne or toilet water.

Free –Radical. Circulating substances in the body that could cause a breakdown of the immune system and lead to disease processes or infection.

Free Radicals. Unstable or chemically incomplete molecules which can be formed within skin as a result of sun, pollution and stress. These molecules may "steal" particles from other molecules thus creating more unstable compounds and setting off a chain reaction that can damage cells. Anti-oxidants such as Vitamins C and E fight free radical action that can weaken epidermal support, resulting in wrinkling of skin, dryness, loss of skin elasticity and premature aging.

Fruit Acids. Found in various fruits and herbs. They are used in masks and moisturizers for their ability to moisturize and exfoliate the skin. Fruit acids are used in concentrations as low as .25% and as high as 8%. The higher concentrations increase the "heat" of the product and the peeling action. It can also cause skin irritation in some people.

Full Bodied. A rich-scented fragrance.

G

Gamma Linolenic Acid. A fatty acid. Found in evening primrose oil, black currant seeds, borage oil, and mother's milk.

Gelatin. Refined protein from animal origin. Used as a thickener and film-forming agent.

Geranium Oil. An effective anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and astringent derived from the aromatic plant. For use on acne and oily skin.

Ginger Oil. Revered in Asia since the earliest of times, ginger acts as an antiseptic and stimulant.

Gingko Biloba Oil. Ginko, thought to be the oldest tree on the planet, has long been used in Chinese medicine. Used for its anti-inflammatory and antiallergenic properties.

Glycereth. A polyethylene glycol ether of glycerin. It is an artificial form of glycerin.

Glycerin, Glycerine, Glycerol. Sweet, syrupy alcohol that can be produced artificially from propylene alcohol or naturally derived from vegetable oils. Used in cosmetics for thousands of years as a solvent, plasticizer, humectant, emollient, and lubricant.

Glycolic Acid. Used as a skin care treatment in exfoliation creams and masks. It may irritate mucous membranes and cause allergic reactions.

Grapefruit Oil. A natural bactericide, preserver and stabilizer. Both a tonic and astringent.

Green Tea. Anti-carcinogenic. Contains polyphenolic antioxidants which play an important role in the prevention of cell damage. Has a soothing and moisturizing effect.

Gums. Polysaccharides of high molecular weight that are scattered in water. They are incomparable to manufactured polymers like the PVP/PVA copolymers. Some gums are used as hair setting products. Natural thickeners are acacia, tragacanth, quince seed, and locust bean.



H

Hemp Seed Oil. A natural source of essential fatty acids vital in preventing cell loss, regulating skin's moisture barrier and maintaining elasticity. This oil absorbs directly into the skin and provides important amino acids, linoleic acid, protein and highly prized Omega oils. Skin visibly responds to this rich nourishment.

Herb. Particularly used in medicine, cosmetics, or foods. A plant without woody tissue that withers and dies after flowering.

Herbal. The fragrance blend from the herbaceous family of plant life. This is a fresh scent that can be used successfully in shampoos and body products.

Herbalist. Person who is in the business of cultivating and processing herbs for use in industry, both beauty and health.

Homeopathy. The practice of natural medicine, using herbal substances rather than conventional medications.

Homosalate. Artificial chemical that is used to replace the phenolic compounds that are used in sunscreens.

Humectant. Used to retain moisture. Using a natural humectant in a cosmetic product helps speed moisturization to the skin.

Hyaluronic Acid. A chemical ingredient that helps skin hold on to moisture. It is the body's natural lubricantand part of the natural moisturizing factor.

Hydrate. As a noun, this means a compound formed by the union of water with another substance. As a verb, it means to supply water to something that absorbs it.

Hydrocortisone. A hormone from the adrenal gland. Synthesized for medical use, particularly for application to inflamed skin. It can adversely affect the skin by damaging the collagen of the connective tissues.

Hydrolyzed Animal Protein. Appears in many shampoos. Improves hair, repairs spilt ends, and gives luster to the hair.

Hydrophilic. Cosmetic ingredient that will attract moisture to the skin.

Hydroxyethylcellulose. Artificial polymer is used as an emulsifier and plasticizer.

Hypericum Extract. Also known as St. John's Wort. An extract of the leaves of the stem of the Hypericum Perforatum which is known for its ability to purify and soothe the skin.


I

Imidazolidinyl Urea. Commonly used cosmetic preservative. Can cause contact dermatitis.

Infusion. The addition of an herb or other natural substance to an oil or other liquid to extract the fragrance or flavor into that liquid.

Iodine. Nonmetallic element. Occurs in seawater and in plants and animals that grow in the sea. When applied topically, it has antiseptic benefits.

Irish Moss. Also known as carrageenan. A seaweed that looks like moss which is used as a soothing emollient.

Iron Oxides. Compounds of iron that are used as colorings in some cosmetics. Also known as jewelers' rouge or rust.

Isopropyl Alcohol. Artificial fatty alcohol. Used as an antiseptic, a solvent, a rubbing alcohol, and as a source for acetone.

Isopropyl Lanolate, Laurate, Oleate, Palmitate, Stearate, and Isostearate. These are esters of isopropyl alcohol and various fatty acids.

Isopropyl Myristate. This synthetic chemical is used to reduce the greasy feel caused by the high oil content of other ingredients.

Ivy Extract. An extract of the climbing plant. Used for its anti-septic properties. 





Jasmine Oil. Often used as a source of perfume. The oil is considered antidepressant and relaxing, and is used externally to soothe dry or sensitive skin.

Jojoba Butter and Oil. Extracted from the edible seeds of the desert shrub Simondsia californica. Used as a lubricant and hair conditioner. Often used in shampoos, moisturizers, and sunscreens. May cause allergic reactions.

Juniper Extract. Extract obtained from the sweet pulp of the juniper berry. Works as a natural skin and hair freshener, and has anti-itching qualities.

Juniper Oil. Has a slightly warming effect on the skin and is thought to promote removal of waste products from underlying tissues. Effectively tones skin.

K

Kaolin. Used in manufacturing high-grade porcelain, paper, paint, cloth, soaps, and many powdered and covering cosmetics. It's also used for its dehydrating and astringent effect. It's known as China Clay.

Keratin. This insoluble albumoid (fiber protein) can be found in horny tissues like the hair and nails. High in sulfur, it's quite strong, but it is subject to chemical penetration.

Ketones. These odorous substances, used in nail polish removers, are toxic.

L

Labeling. The Cosmetic Labeling Act ( Fair packaging and labeling act ) marked a major step in helping consumers become aware of what they put into their hair and rub onto their faces. Passed April 14, 1977, it requires that ingredients be listed, in descending order of concentration, on the labels of most cosmetics. Soap, however, excluded, and flavors, fragrances and trade secrets don't have to be listed specifically.

Lactic Acid. Naturally occurs in products made by bacterial fermentation. Produces pH levels like those of the hair and skin. It also helps moisturize the skin naturally.

Lake Colors. These solid forms of dyes are made by mixing liquid dye with an insoluble powder like aluminum oxide. They may be natural, but they're usually manufactured and are made from coal tar.

Lanolin. This yellow, semisolid, fatty discharge from sheep's wool is used as an emulsifier, a base, and an ointment. Lanolin has long been burdened with the reputation for being an allergen or sensitizing agent. That has always been a disappointment to formulators because lanolin is such an effective moisturizing agent for skin. A recent study in the British Journal of Dermatology (July 2001, pages 28–31) may change all that. The study concluded "that lanolin sensitization has remained at a relatively low and constant rate even in a high-risk population (i.e., patients with recent or active eczema)." Based on a review of 24,449 patients who were tested with varying forms of lanolin, it turned out that "The mean annual rate of sensitivity to this allergen was 1.7%"—and it was lower than that for a 50% concentration of lanolin. It looks like it's time to restore lanolin's good reputation. That's a very good thing for someone with dry skin, though it can be a problem for someone with oily skin, because lanolin closely resembles the oil from human oil glands.

Lauramide DEA. This white, waxy, nonionic, artificial chemical is used in shampoos, bubble baths, and detergents as a surfactant and foam-builder. It may be mildly irritating to the skin.

Lauryl Alcohol. This fatty alcohol, often derived from coconut oil, is used to make anionic surfactants. It may be natural or man-made.

Lavender Oil. Known for its sweet, floral-herbaceous scent. Lavender has significant antiseptic and antibacterial actions which help promote healing. Used in baths to relax, revive and soothe. For use on all skin types.

Lecithin. Used as an emulsifier and surfactant. High in the B vitamins choline and inositol. It's found in egg yolk and manufactured from soy oil.

Lemon Oil. From the fruit of the citrus lemon. Known for its astringent and anti-irritant qualities.

Lime Oil. Shares many qualities with lemon oil. Has many antiseptic and restorative properties.

Linden Extract. From the flowers of the Linden tree. The flowers contain essential oils which are celebrated for their brightening and soothing qualities.

Linoleic Acid. Essential fatty acid, found in cold pressed oils, used as an emulsifier in cosmetics.

Lipids. These materials are soluble in alcohol (and other solvents) but not in water. Includes fatty acids, fats, waxes, fixed oils, phosphatides, cerebrosides, and sometimes steroids and carotenoids. Along with proteins and carbohydrates, lipids constitute the structure of cells. When used on the skin, they have a moisturizing and cream action.

Liposomes. Microscopic sacs obtained from natural or synthetic sources. Because these can easily penetrate the skin, in lotions and creams liposomes are used to deliver substances, contained within the sac, to internal skin layers.


M

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate. Flaky white solid. Used as a filler and thickener in cosmetics. Especially used in antiperspirants, creams, and shaving creams.

Magnesium Stearate. Used as a filler in cosmetics.

Matricaria Oil. Oil obtained from the dried flower heads of the plant Matricaria Chamomilla. Celebrated as a source of azulene, the blue substance known for its reviving quality.

MEA. Monoethanolamine. See alkyloamides.

Melon Extract. Melon has natural cleansing properties as well as the ability to soften and soothe the skin.

Menthol. Derived from peppermint. Has soothing properties if used in concentrations of 1% or less.

Methyl Acetate. Artificial chemical used as an aromatic and solvent. It can cause dryness.

Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). Flammable, colorless liquid. Primarily used as a solvent. Skin irritant.

Mica. Somewhat shiny silicate minerals split into very thin sheets. Used in eye cosmetics to provide sparkle.

Middle Note. The second stage of fragrance development on the skin. Individuals react to different chemicals causing variations in scent.

Milk Bath. A bath preparation made with milk products as the base. A natural product, it is soothing to the skin.

Milk Protein. Obtained from a whole cow's milk. For centuries, milk has been used as a natural, soothing skin cleanser and softener.

Mineral Oil. A liquid mixture of hydrocarbons gathered from petroleum. Light mineral oil is an ingredient of choice as an essential moisturizer for psoriasis, primarily functioning as an occlusive barrier to retard moisture loss without restricting essential ingredient absorption. In the case of a psoriatic condition the water loss from the external skin layers can exceed the rate of replacement from below, hence as part of our formulation, it is necessary to place an occlusive barrier onto the surface of the skin to retard water loss.

Moisturizer. When externally used on the hair or skin raises the moisture content.

Monoethanolamine. Liquid amino alcohol that is used as an humectant and emulsifier in cosmetics.

N

Nail Polish Remover. Highly flammable. Can dissolve many plastics. It can be fatal if swallowed. The conditioning ingredients do little to mitigate acetone's strongly drying and degreasing effects.

Natural. Ingredients produced entirely from extracts taken from plants or animals, with no synthetic substances or additives.

Natural Spray. A spray in pump form, using no aerosol or chemical additives.

Nettle Leaf. Primarily used as a cleansing, detoxifying agent. Helps many skin conditions.

Nitrocellulose. Flammable man-made substance. Used as an emulsifier and protective film in cosmetics, especially nail polish.

Nitrosamines. Carcinogenic compounds formed from secondary amines (nitosating agents) and nitrous acid. Typical nitrosating agents used in cosmetic formulations are DEA, MEA, and TEA.

Non-acnegenic. Will not clog oil glands to produce a break-out on people prone to acne.

Non-comedogenic. Does not clog oil glands to cause blemishes.

O

Oatmeal. Ground oat kernels (after husks have been removed). A natural, mild exfoliant. Soothing to the skin. Found in Oatmeal-Lavender Cleanser and Oatmeal-Mint Cleanser.

Oil-based. A product in which oil soluble solutions are the major part.

Oil Glands. Oil/Sebaceous glands produce a waxy-fatty substance called sebum which lubricates the skin and protects it from moisture loss.

Oleic Acid. Fatty acid that is a common constituent of many animals and vegetables. It is a common cosmetic ingredient.

Oleth-2 through Oleth-50. These polyethylene glycol ethers of oleic alcohol are used as surfactants.

Oleyl Alcohol. Fatty alcohol. Oily, unsaturated liquid found in fish oils. Is used to make surface-active agents.

Organic. Natural chemical compounds found in nature, void of synthetic substances. Also known as all-natural.

Oxybenzone. Sunscreening agent derived from isopropanol.

Ozokerite. Naturally occurring waxlike mineral. An emulsifier and thickening agent used in lipstick and cream rouge.

P

Palmitate. Used in baby oils, bath oils, eye creams, hair conditioners, and moisturizers. It can cause allergic reactions in some people.

Palmitic Acid. Fatty acid from palm oil.

Palm Oil. White to yellowish fat. Used to make soaps, shampoos, ointments, and margarine.

Para-aminobenzoic Acid (PABA). Found in Vitamin B complex. Used in sunscreen formulations and as an anesthetic in sunburn products. Can cause allergic reactions.

Parabens. Toxic. Allergenic. Artificial chemicals. Used to preserve cosmetics. They are not effective with shampoos or with products that contain proteins.

Paraffin. Waxy, crystalline mixture. Used as a thickener for cosmetics.

Parfum. See Perfume

Patchouli. Native to Malaysia and the Philippines, Patchouli has been used extensively in Asian Medicine. Its most common use has been as an aphrodisiac. It is thought to have a regenerative effect.

Patch Test. Apply a small amount of cosmetic to your inner arm, cover it with a bandage and leave it for 24 hours, if you are concerned with allergic reactions.

Pectin. Natural substance. Used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and thickener. Contains partially methoxylated polygalacturonic acids.

PEG Compounds. Artificial. Used as solvents, bases, carriers, emulsifiers, and dispersants.

Peppermint Oil. An excellent antiseptic and anti-inflammatory. Soothes and tones blemished, irritated skin. Cooling.

Peptides. Natural or artificial. Composed of amino acids linked by peptide bonds. When peptide bonds in the hair are broken, the result is damaged hair.

Perfume. The most concentrated form of synthetically prepared fragrance, applied to the skin to enhance the nature of one’s image. Dating back to ancient times, perfume was created by the Egyptians of resins and wood mixed with oils and water. Today’s perfumes are an enhanced blend of essential oils, alcohol and water, and the “secret” ingredients of its creator.

Petroleum Jelly. Semisolid mixture. Obtained from petroleum.

PHBs. These are preservatives widely used in many cosmetics and shampoo. Another name is paraben.

Phosphoric Acid. Clear, viscous liquid. Use in cosmetics as an antioxidant, sequestrant, and acidifier.

Photo damage/ photoaging. Changes the appearance and function of the skin due to repeated sun exposure and not to the passage of time; may result in skin cancer. Sun protection is the principle means of protecting photoaging changes. Skin cancer incidence can also be reduced.

Phototoxic. Medications or food which render the skin sensitive to light (sun) thereby causing an adverse reaction.

Phytocosmetic. A cosmetic made mainly from vegetable sources.

Pineapple Extract. Pineapple's anti-inflammation and anti-irritation qualities, combined with its ability to refine the skin make it excellent for face care products.

Polymers, polymeric, polymerization. Used in cosmetics to keep sunscreens from washing off, in hair-setting products, and as binders in skin creams. Plastic fingernails are also produced by polymerization.

Polysorbates. Fatty acid esters. Used in many cosmetics as emulsifiers. Polysorbates are assigned different numerical values according to their formulas and whether they're intended to be used in foods or cosmetics.

Polyvinylpyrrolidone. Commonly known as PVP. Used in hairspray and other cosmetics. Inhaled particles may cause problems in the lungs of sensitive people.

Preservatives. Researchers have become increasingly aware of the dangers associated with microbial contamination of topical skin products and know more today than ever about the sources of contamination. Unfortunately the battle against contamination is far from won as adaptable organisms continue to cause problems resulting in bacterial infections of the skin.

Pre-Shave. A fragranced liquid used by men before shaving to lubricate the face and prepare the skin.

Propylene Glycol. One of the most widely used ingredients in cosmetics. Most common moisture carrying vehicle other than water. Permeates skin better than glycerin, but causes more sensitivity reactions.

Protein. Protein consists of amino acids and constitutes about 15% of human body weight. Protein is of critical importance in the structure and function of cells. Recently the use of proteins has been broadened to skin care since many skin problems such as chapping and dryness appear to be associated with damage to or actual loss of skin protein.

Psoriasis. A chronic inflammatory skin disease of unknown cause in which skin cells replicate at a rapid rate. Psoriasis cannot be passed from one person to another, though it is more likely to occur in people whose family members have it. The rash usually consists of scaly red patches that can cause itching. Certain conditions, e.g., infection, some drugs, climate and perhaps hormonal factors and smoking, may trigger attacks.

Pulse Points. The areas on the body where the pulse of the heart is felt close to the skin. The pressure of the pulse will generate heat, therefore forcing the fragrance applied at these points to be enhanced. Pulse points are located behind the earlobes, at the wrists, behind the knees, on the neck, and in between the breasts.

PVP. Abbreviation for Polyvinylpyrrolidone. A faintly yellow, solid, plastic resin resembling albumen. Used to give a softer set in shampoos, hairsprays, and lacquers; also a carrier in emollient creams, liquid lip rouge, and face rouge; also a clarifier in vinegar and a plasma expander in medicine. The CIR Expert panel says based on available data, it is safe as a cosmetic ingredient



Q

Quaternary Ammonium Salts. Used as water repellents, fungicides, emulsifiers, paper and fabric softeners, antistatic agents, and corrosion inhibitors. Their use in cosmetics, especially in hair conditioners and creme rinses, came from the paper and fabric industries.

Quaternium-15. Toxic chemical. More effective against bacteria than against molds and yeast.


R

Remedy. A substance used to cure or heal an illness, pain or disorder. This can be a prepared medication, a natural substance found in nature, or a combination of the two.

Retin A (Also called retinoic acid). A prescription drug for the treatment of acne. Is also believed to help repair sun damage.

Retinoic Acid. A derivative of Vitamin A.

Retinoids/Retinol. A series of compounds derived from Vitamin A. These compounds are found in skin and aid in its normal functioning.

Retinyl Palmitate. A form of Vitamin A that is included in skin formulations and may improve elasticity and temporarily reduce the appearance of fine lines.

Rose Oil. The healing virtues of the rose have been known since antiquity. Helps soothe dry, sensitive skin.

Rose Hips. Scarlet fruit (called "hips") come from the Dog Rose and have high levels of vitamins.

Rosemary Oil. A physical and mental stimulant, and an astringent healer used to treat muscle soreness.

S

Salicyclic Acid. The active ingredient in aspirin. Used in cosmetics as an antiseptic and preservative.

Saponins (Quillia Extract). Many plants (soap plants) contain substances called saponins which form a natural lather in water that is a gentle but effective natural cleaner and some have been used as an alternative to soap.

Sandalwood Oil. Deep, soft, sweet, woody balsamic scent. Highly esteemed in China and India. Plays a part in Hindu ritual.

Sassafras. Essential oil obtained from the roots of the Sassafras tree. Is a healing and antiseptic extract that can reduce irritation and swelling.

Saturated Fats. A fat usually of animal origin. When fatty acid chains can't accommodate any more hydrogen atoms they become saturated.

Sebaceous Glands. Glands in the skin that open into hair follicles and from which sebum is secreted.

Seborrhea. A condition in which there is over-activity of the sebaceous glands. The distinctive characteristics of the disorder are its common occurrence in hair areas (especially the scalp), the appearance of well-demarcated, dull yellowish-red lesions, and the associated presence of greasy or dry scales. Rashes can occur on the face, shoulders and chest./p

Seaweed. High in vitamins A, B - complex, C and E. A skin and scalp nutrient, soothing and toning.

Sesame Oil. Softens skin.

Shea Butter. An excellent emollient for skin moisturizers made from Mangifolia Tree Nuts High in triglycerides and fatty acids.

Soap. A cleansing material made of oils, detergents and fragrance, used on skin. Comes in many different forms; bar soap, liquid soap, gels, and flakes. The detergents in soap combine with water to penetrate the skin, attract the dirt particles and separate them from the skin, making them easier to then rinse away.

Sodium Alginate. Natural compound. Mostly used as a thickener and emulsifier in foods, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics.

Sodium Ascorbate. Used in cosmetics as an antioxidant and preservative.

Sodium Bisulphite. Artificial chemical that is used as a hair relaxer and a preservative.

Sodium Borate. Used in cosmetics as an emulsifier, preservative and detergent builder.

Sodium Carbonate. Used in cosmetics as a humectant and an alkalizer.

Sodium Citrate. Crystalline salt. Used in cosmetics as a sequestrant and an alkalizer, and in foods as a buffering agent.

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Very popular ingredient. Used as a detergent, emulsifier, and surfactant in over a thousand cosmetic products. This includes shampoos, toothpaste, lotions, and creams.

Sodium Thioglycolate. A chemical used in permanents as a hair relaxer. Is a primary irritant.

Sorbitol. Derived from fruit or algae. A humectant that gives skin a velvety feel. Gives a lubricant quality to lotions.

Soybean Oil. Pale yellow oil. Consists of mostly glycerides of linoleic, oleic, linolenic, and palmitic acids. Used in cosmetics as an emollient.

Spearmint Oil. Essential oil obtained from the fresh spearmint plant. Known for its healing, soothing properties.

Stearalkonium Chloride. Used almost universally in hair conditioners. It was originally developed by the textile industry for use as a fabric softener. It also has antistatic properties.

Steareth-2,-4,-7,-10,-20,-30. Used as lotions and emulsifiers.

Stearic Acid. Waxy, crystalline fatty acid. Found in cocoa butter and other vegetable fats. It is mainly from tallow and other animal fats.

Stratum Corneum. The topmost layer of cells of the epidermis.

Subcutaneous. The third and innermost layer of the skin.

Sulfate. Artificial liquid. Made with sulfated oils. Used to make manufactured soaps and detergents. Harmful to marine life and the environment.

Sugar Cane Extract. Gently removes damaged, dead and dry cell so fresh, healthy-looking skin can appear.

Sunflower Oil. Extracted from sunflower seeds it is rich in essential fatty acids.

Sunscreen/Sun block. Sunscreens provide protection from damaging/ harmful effects of UVB/ UVA rays. Sunscreens with a high Sun Protection Factor (SPF) can minimize the danger of photodamage and skin cancers. Sun blocks provide 100% protection from the sun and therefore do not enable one to tan.

Surfectant. A material (substance) that helps oil and water to mix so that the two will not separate and will remain a smooth stable cream or lotion (Emulsifier). They are also are important for cosmetics where mildness is needed such as shampoos and lotions.


T

TEA. Triethanolamine. Used in cosmetics as a pH adjuster, an emulsifier, a preservative, and in soap formulations. May be harmful when contaminated by nitrosamines.

TEA-Lauryl Sulfate. Very popular shampoo ingredient. Used as synthetic detergent. A combination of triethanolamine and the salt of lauryl sulfuric acid.

Tea Tree. A plant found in Australia, used for its unique fragrance and healing properties.

Tea Tree Oil. Derived from the tree Melaleuca alternifolia. Used as an antiseptic and germicide. Also used for insect bites, skin problems, as a dentifrice, and mouthwash. Cosmetic applications are often dandruff shampoos, face masks, and topical creams.

Thioglycolates. Compounds capable of breaking down the protein bonds in hair. Used in permanent waves and depilatory agents. Toxic in small doses and can damage hair and skin.

Thyme Extract. From the dried leaves and flowering tops of the wild, creeping herb. Is antiseptic, disinfectant, cleansing and hygienic.

Titanium Dioxide. White powder. Used as a pigment in eye makeup, sunscreens, and foundation makeup. It is also used as an opacifying agent, for its covering power, brilliance, and reflectivity.

Toilet Water. A less concentrated form of fragrance than perfume, usually 4 to 8%. This is a less aromatic scent, making it more suitable for daytime use, and the business world.

Toluene. Used as a solvent in cosmetics, especially nail polish, and also dyes. It is used in pharmaceuticals and gasoline as a blending agent. It is toxic and narcotic in high concentrations.

Top Note. The initial odor or scent given off by a fragrance after application to the skin. The strongest emission of bouquet, before it is altered by the body chemistry.

Tragacanth. Herbal gum. Used as a thickener in cosmetics, and in hair care products as a hairspray or setting-lotion ingredient.

Triclosan. An antibacterial agent used in deodorant and deodorant soaps. Absorption through skin may cause liver damage.


U

Urea. Found in urine and other body fluids. Used medicinally as a diuretic and in cosmetics. Can cause an allergic reaction to those allergic to ammonia and is an eye irritant.

V

Vetiver Oil. With a deep smoky, earthy, woody odor, it is used as a tonic and antiseptic. Helps encourage circulation and is also used for its aromatic, fine fragrance.

Vitamins. Essential for normal growth and contribute to the natural moisturizing factor. The skin is often the first indication of a vitamin deficiency that can cause dry skin.

Vitamin A. Fat-soluble vitamin. Helps remedy rough, dry skin and has been used in the treatment of psoriasis. It has been used as a topical acne treatment. Some people are allergic to it. It has been used to treat aging skin. It can be obtained from fish liver oil, liver, carrots, green and yellow vegetables, eggs, milk, and dairy products, margarine, and yellow fruits. It prevents vitamin C from being oxidized too quickly in the body. Normal dosages are harmless.

Vitamin C. Can preserve cosmetics both in the water phase and in its fat-soluble form. It plays an important role in building collagen, the connective tissue that holds us together.

Vitamin D. Fat-soluble vitamin essential for healthy bones, teeth, and the absorption of calcium. The body can produce its own vitamin D from sun exposure.

Vitamin E. One of the most compelling natural fat-soluble antioxidants in use, particularly when combined with vitamin C and vitamin A.


W

Walnut Shell Powder. The ground powder of the walnut shell acts as a natural exfoliant

Water-based. A product in which water and water soluble materials constitute the major part.

Wheat Germ Oil. Oil from the embryo of the wheat kernel that is high in vitamin E. Used as a moisturizer in cosmetics.

Whitehead. The plug of a clogged oil gland (pore) lying beneath the surface of the skin. Smaller that a blackhead, it is sometimes only visible with the help of a magnifying glass

Wintergreen Oil. A tonic, stimulant and astringent, aromatic oil has a warming action on muscles. Brings relief to swollen or sore muscles.

Witch Hazel. A natural extract from the leaves and twigs of a shrub. A skin refresher, local anesthetic and a natural, gentle astringent. It is soothing to the skin and helps regulate sebaceous glands.

X

Xanthan Gum. Xanthan gum is a polysaccharide (long-chain sugar) used in natural skin care, cosmetics and body care as a thickener and stabilizer. It is naturally produced by carbohydrate fermentation.

Ximenia americana oil. Plum oil; it can have emollient properties.

Xylose. Form of sugar. Similar to other sugars, xylose has water-binding properties for skin.