HOW OFF YOUR PROFESSIONAL SKILLS. CREATE pHENOMENAL HAIRCOLOR.
The Redken Color Mantra is a targeted three-Zone approach to haircolor application designed to help you maximize color results and minimize stress on your client's hair.
What are Zones? Redken uses the term "Zones" to refer to different areas of the hair strand. Understanding Zones will help you achieve phenomenal, even color results every time!
ZONE 1: Regrowth or root area, approximately the first 1/2 inch of hair
ZONE 2: Mid-shaft area, begins where Zone 1 ends
ZONE 3: Overly porous hair that extends past the shoulders (not all hair has a Zone 3)
We apply color in Zones based on pH science because:
- Each Zone accepts color differently based on the condition of the hair
- We care for the integrity of even the most sensitized parts of the hair
- The combination of alkaline and acidic color maximizes color results and minimizes stress on hair
Note: Alkaline color should only touch Zone 1. Use any alkaline color formula on Zone 1 and refresh with acidic color (Shades EQ) on Zones 2-3.
PRINCIPLES OF HAIRCOLOR: WHAT IS HAIR?
- Hair is a canvas composed of a mixture of protein, moisture, lipids, pigment, minerals and carbohydrates in various proportions.
- The hair’s structure is divided into 3 areas: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla.
- There are two types of natural pigment: pheomelanin and eumelanin. Everyone has a combination of both.
- The physical properties of hair are texture, density and condition. All are important to consider when formulating haircolor.
PRINCIPLES OF HAIRCOLOR VISUAL VALUES AND THE LEVEL SYSTEM
- When analyzing hair for a haircolor service, it’s important to determine the hair’s natural level or its visual value, ranging from light to dark. This is always the starting point for achieving desired haircolor results.
- Redken’s visual values chart is divided into 5 value ranges: lightest, light, medium, dark and darkest.
- Undertones are the warmth created during the lifting process. This is caused by the fragmenting of the natural pigment.
PRINCIPLES OF HAIRCOLOR PRINCIPLE BASED FORMULATION
- As part of your consultation, determine the natural level, or starting level, of the hair.
- Then determine the target level, desired level, percentage of gray and desired tonal result.
- Look for the undertone at the desired level to help determine the end result.
- Gray hair requires a balance of brown and added warmth to maintain a natural look.
- Select a developer based on your Redken haircolor brand, shade and level.
- Make adjustments based on the hair’s physical properties. If the hair is questionable in any way, it’s important to perform one or more pre-treatments prior to the haircolor service.