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Coloring Techniques Demistified


Let’s talk about the different techniques you can use in Coloring.

Balayage- the French word "To Sweep", using a brush & a spatula you hand stroke the lightener onto the hair making it lighter.

Block Coloring- This is taking large chucks of hair and coloring them different colors, so say the nape would be one color, the crown another and the front fringe another. It's color larger sections of hair.

FOILING- foil highlighting is a method of isolating selected strands of hair to be lightened. When foiling, a colorist has two basic options; slicing or weaving.

Slicing - involves slicing very fine sections of the hair for placement in a foil. This method will provide a more diffused, overall lighter result which may be subtle or dramatic, depending on the amount of foil placed on the head.

Weaving - placing hair in foils resulting in a more streaked or chunky effect. The larger the weave, the more dramatic the result.  Think of small weaving  as coloring most of the hair, and stitch weaving like taking 1/2 inch stitches to 3/4 inch stitches as bigger weaves.

Channel Highlights and Lowlights - Channel Highlights -take a slice, then weave that slice in an uneven weave- think of wood paneling- then place the top section of weave out of your way, apply color to the bottom weave & fold up the foil, then take down the top weave and apply a different color to take foil and fold up, so within one slice you have 2 foils of different colors the complement each other

Natural Highlights and Base Break - Apply a cool ash color + 20vol that is 2 to 3 levels above the natural level, apply it to the mid shaft & ends first then right to the scalp area, time for 5 to 10 minutes ONLY and rinse & lightly condition.Then place highlights in small slices throughout the head. Process until lightness achieved. Rinse foils and towel dry hair.

Glaze- a final step in the highlighting service to blend or marry the tones of the highlights together., usually done with a light level using a demi permanent.

Lowlighting- taking slices or weaves and applying a color that is 2 to 4 levels lighter than the natural to put dark back into overly highlighted hair. Make  sure you use a Neutral + Gold + small amount of Orange in your lowlight formula so the lowlight will stay in the hair.

Ombre-- melting of color gradation going from dark at the scalp area gradually getting lighter towards the ends, this usuallu uses 3 to 6 colors or lightener with different peroxide volume stengths.

Monochromatic- creates a single tone, all over color scalp to ends.

Multi-dimensional- color that lightens and darkens the hair using lighter highlights & lowlights of a darker color.

Sombre- related to Ombre but with softer tones and not as much contrast.

ZigZag- type of parting to create a soft line to intermingle sections together.


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