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Filler Guidelines - by Michael Quick

"Fill" Guidelines


I know that there are always questions when it comes to filling hair when doing a tint back. Here are the guidelines to fill the hair to insure beautiful balanced results, no matter what line you use.

1) Determine the desired level for the final result.

2) Choose the fill color that is the undertone at the level that is 2 levels lighter than the desired end result.
For example:
If your final result is to be a Level 5, you would fill using the color that is the undertone of a Level 7. In this case that fill color would be Orange.
Desired Final Level: 7 =====>Fill Color: Yellow
Desired Final Level: 6 ====> Fill Color: Yellow/Orange
Desired Final Level: 5 ====> Fill Color: Orange
Desired Final Level: 4 ====> Fill Color: Red/Orange
Desired Final Level: 3 ====> Fill Color: Red

3) The fill needs to be soft. If filling with a red color, the red needs to be a soft red as opposed to a fire engine, crayola red.

4) Fill always needs to be warm...the more damaged the hair the warmer the fill color needs to be

Remember that pourous/damaged hair no mater how reconditioned will always pull cooler than the shade applied.

Oranges turn more Gold
Warm Golds more Yellow and Neutral
Yellow more Ash
Beiges more Violet
Ash colors more Silver.

If you look at most color charts the colors are arranged in a basic pattern of cool to warm. When applying a specific color to over processed/damaged hair look to the next coolest color to get a general idea of what to expect
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Michael Quick
Color Expert for AskMags.com
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