JBuzz and I were talking and she asked me to post some of the Universal Rules of Color that are un-changeable and apply to ANY colorline, no matter what the brand. So, here they are. Since I go blank when I post, I'll add to this as I think of more that I know.
- Tint cannot lift artifical color reliably - so, treat that as never.
- You cannot, ever, go more than 2 levels lighter without uncontrolled warmth. There is no way to get a truly ash shade when lifting 3 levels - it will be neutral-warm at best. And lifting 4 or 5 levels it will always be strongly warm no matter how much drabbing ash you put in your formula.
- When darkening any hair, natural or lightened/tinted, hair more than 2 levels, you must Colorprime/ Fill to replace the missing pigments at the level you intend to color to.
- To create a truly ash brown, with absolutely no warmth, on natural Levels 1, 2, 3 or 4, you must prelighten and tone.
- Ash colors look lighter than warm colors at Level 6 and above. Ash colors look darker than warm colors at level 5 and below.
- Naturally dark hair cannot be bleached to Pale-Yellow with only one lightening treatment. Two or more are always required. No more than 2 a day!.
- Retouches are technically corrective-color situations, so treat them as such.
- Damaged hair rejects yellow and red pigments and strongly holds onto blue pigments.
- Natural hair rejects blue pigments and strongly holds onto red and yellow pigments.