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Sunday, 09 December 2007 |
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Acne A chronic disorder of the hair follicles and sebaceous (oil) glands. It is characterized by blackheads, pimple outbreaks, cysts, and sometimes scarring. Acne rosacea Adult acne-like appearance characterized by redness, sensitivity, irritation and flushing centralized on the middle of the face, particularly on the nose and across the cheeks. Actinic keratosis Small, rough reddish patches on the skin. Often sharp to the touch. Most common in fair-skinned people, these may become skin cancer if not removed. Advanced Performance Complex™ A combination of pharmaceutical grade ingredients that strengthen skin cells, attract and lock in hydration, and restore youthful skin. Algae Used for its antioxidant and moisturizing properties. Allantoin Which comes form the comfrey root, is used for its healing, moisturizing, soothing and anti-irritating properties. Aloe Vera A superb hydrator and soothing agent, very beneficial to damaged, dry, chapped or sun-exposed skin. Alpha Hydroxy Acid A group of plant-derived acids used to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, to improve skin texture and tone, unblock and cleanse pores, improve oily skin or acne, and improve skin condition in general by exfoliation, or shedding of the surface skin. The most frequently used are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Amino Acids building blocks for collagen and elastin, such as lecithin. Antioxidant A substance that helps create a barrier from free radial damage, the result of the decaying process of oxidation. Oxidation is what causes most of the visible signs of aging in the skin. Valuable skincare antioxidants include Pomegranate, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Goji Berry, Ellagic acid and Green tea. Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C) Is an antioxidant, helping to protect the body from oxidation, and free radical induced problems. Vitamin C performs numerous functions in the body including collagen formation, preventing breakage of capillary walls and neutralizing free radicals. Avocado Oil Used for its moisturizing properties. Azelaic Acid Used for its antibacterial, and anti- inflammation properties.
Benzoyl Peroxide An antibacterial agent used in acne treatments. Effective in treating acne but can dry the skin, causing more breakouts. BHA Also known as Beta Hydroxy Acid, used for its exfoliating purposes. It is lipophilic, or known for its abilities to dissolve oil. The most common BHA is salicylic acid. Blackheads Also known as open comedones, look like small dark or grayish dots. Blackheads are caused by excess oil that is oxidized which causes them to turn black in color.
Caffeine Used in topical creams to reduce puffiness. Chamomile Used for its anti-inflammatory properties. It is also known for its bactericidal, anti-itching, soothing, antiseptic and purifying capabilities. Chitosan- aids in moisture retention. City skin- Exposure to greater environmental toxins from pollution, smog and heightened stress level that arises from coping with the logistics of daily life. Co-3™ Patented by Murad, helps rebuilds and strengthen skin by binding collagen and elastic fibers. Repairs skin for the prevention and treatment of fine lines and wrinkles. Inhibits formation of collagen destroying enzymes. Coenzyme Q 10 An enzyme, which functions as an antioxidant to boost the skin’s defense mechanisms, immunity and protection against free radicals. Collagen The elastic fibers that provide skin with its structural support. CTI In the United States, cosmetics are regulated under the Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, which is enforced by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA). The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has abundant legal authority to regulate the safety of cosmetic products. Cuperose A non-technical term that estheticians use for redness, acne rosacea and/or telangiectasia (spider veins). Cyst Small, yellowish-tan to skin colored, firm round masses just beneath the skin. These can enlarge slowly and when infected can result in scarring. Can be exacerbated by acne.
Dehydrated skin Skin that lacks moisture. Dry skin Skin that lacks oil.
Eczema Cause unknown. In mild forms the skin is dry, hot and itchy, in more severe forms the skin can become broken, raw and bleeding. Elastin Responsible for skin’s ability to retain in its shape. Ellagic acid A super-antioxidant known for its healing benefits, found in Green Tea, Pomegranate, and Goji Berry. Environmental or Extrinsic Aging Aging symptoms accelerated by elements of the environment-such as stress, pollution and sun damage. Enzyme Whether in the form papain (papaya) or bromelain (pineapple), enzymes have long been used in their pure form as exfoliants. They work by dissolving the dead skin cells on the top layer of skin. Essential Fatty Acids The basic building block of cellular membrane, used to prevent cellular water loss, such as Omega 3, Omega 6, Flaxseed, and Goji Berry. Essential oils Far from true oils because they are lighter than water and have antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. Estrogen The key hormone in the female reproduction system. In the skin, estrogen keeps skin soft, firm, and supple by encouraging the production of collagen. Evening Primrose oil Helpful for skin irritations and improves the skin’s ability to develop normal barrier functions. Exfoliation The chemical or mechanical removal of dead or non-functioning skin cells.
Flavonoids Support health by strengthening capillaries and other connective tissue, and some function as anti-inflammatory, anti-histaminic, and anti-viral agents. Folliculitis Painful, cystic bump, when hair is trapped in the follicle. Free Radicals Unstable molecules found naturally in the body and in the environment. To reduce their energy load, free radicals react with certain chemicals in the body, and in the process, interfere with the cells’ ability to function normally. Free radicals are a main cause of extrinsic aging.
Ginkgo Biloba Enhances blood circulation and oxygen supply to the brain, heart and other body parts. It has been shown to have certain antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Glucosamine Strengthens connective tissue so it can absorb more water. Glycerin Used for its water-binding abilities, allowing it to draw and absorb water from the air. Glycolic Acid An alpha hydroxy acid used for its exfoliation properties. Glycosaninoglycans Skin conditioning agent that also helps strengthen the skins barrier. Goji Berry One of the most nutritionally dense foods on the planet, used for its amino acids, essential fatty acids, trace minerals, vitamin C, beta-carotene, and anti-inflammatory properties. Grape Seed Extract Derived from the small seeds of red grapes. Grape seed extract is rich in flavonoids, phytochemicals that have antioxidant properties. Green Tea Used for its potent anti-oxidant properties, including ellagic acid.
Hormonal Aging
Part of intrinsic aging specifically associated with the natural change in hormone levels. Includes peri-menopausal and menopausal concerns. Hyaluronic acid An acid that helps retain the skin's natural moisture. It can hold 1000 times its weight in water. Hydrators Ingredients that add moisture to the skin to help strengthen the barrier. Hydrogen Peroxide Used for its antibacterial properties. Also effective in killing p-acnus. Hydroquinone Pigment lightening agent used to lighten age spots and acne scars. Hydroxy acids A group including alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid known for its exfoliating properties. Hyperpigmentation Excess production of melanin pigment, resulting in darkening of the skin. Hypopigmentation Lack production of melanin, causing ‘white spots’ on skin.
Inclusive Health Caring for yourself, emotionally, socially and spiritually. Ingrown hair See folliculitis. Intrinsic Aging The normal process of aging without the influence of external factors. Largely controlled by genetics.
Keratosis Pilaris Small, red bumps caused by clogged hair follicles. Most commonly found on the cheeks and upper arms.
Lactic Acid An alpha hydroxy acid used for its exfoliation properties. Lavender Oil Essential oil used for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiseptic, soothing and
healing qualities. Lecithin The chemical cousin of vitamin B, lecithin is an essential building block of the lipid layer surrounding the cells and forms the foundation of the cell membrane. Lecithin is so vital to the integrity of the cell wall that the body is equipped to manufacture is own supply. Lesion Any mark, symptom or abnormality on the skin. Licorice Used for its anti-irritant and for its brightening properties. Linoleic Acid Also known as vitamin K, an essential fatty acid. Used for redness reduction properties.
Melanin A substance responsible for giving skin color. Menopausal skin Caused by a shift in hormones, sometimes resulting in facial hair, breakouts, dilated blood vessels, and increasingly sensitive skin. Menthol Used for its stimulating and cooling properties. Milia Little white cysts or bumps under the skin. Unlike whiteheads, these have no pore opening and cannot be squeezed out. Murad Recipe Ingredients found in every Murad product including: Anti-oxidants, Anti-inflammatory, and hydrating ingredients.
Night Cream A moisturizer in which there is a greater concentration of hydrating ingredients than typically used in day creams. There are two reasons why a night cream is important 1) TEWL (trans epidermal water loss) is greatest at night. A night cream can prevent that kind of dehydration. 2) the body’s cell are replenished with nutrients and are being regenerated at night, so this is the time to optimize the delivery of the raw materials the skin needs. Normal/ combination skin Partially oily and partially dehydrated skin. Most often t-zone is oily and the outside of the checks and jaw are dehydrated.
Oily skin Is defined as an excess of sebum or oil production skin. Oxidation A change in a chemical characterized by the loss of electrons.
P-acnes Also known as propinibacterium acnes, the bacteria that causes acne. Panthenol Anti-inflammatory agent known for its healing and moisturizing benefits. Papule A raised lesion characterized by red bumps. Peppermint Oil Used for its antibacterial properties. Peri-menopause The period of time anywhere from 2-10 years before menopause. Starts as early as late twenties in women. Pharmaceutical Grade Ingredients (or prescription grade) means ingredients found normally in the highest quality products. Phosphatidylcholine Ingredient that helps maintain cell walls. Phospholipids Used for its essential fatty acid properties. Photoaging Damage to the skin caused by the sun or ultraviolet rays. Phytochemicals Compounds that act as free radical scavengers to help eliminate the highly charged oxygen molecules that are by-products of metabolized oxygen. Phytochemicals are known for their anti-oxidant properties. Pigmentation discoloration of the skin. Polyphenols Plant derived chemicals with superb antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and skin rejuvenating capabilities. Pomegranate Used for its intensive antioxidant properties, considered a super-antioxidant and contains 5% ellagic acid. Purging Process A reaction in skin when you begin using a new skin care line. This occurs because the product is actively cleansing and bringing all the trapped oil & impurities to the surface of your skin, which can initially cause more breakouts. Pustule An infected papule with a white or yellow center of pus.
Red tea Also know as Aspalathus Linearis Leaf extract, is the strongest known antioxidant. Known to help strengthen capillary wall. Retinol A Vitamin A derivative that helps normalize skin cell production. Most commonly found in anti-aging and acne products. Rosacea A skin condition characterized by redness, pimples, and broken blood vessels.
Salicylic Acid A beta hydroxy acid used for its exfoliating and oil dissolving properties Saw Palmetto Known to help inhibit hair growth in women. Seborrhea Severe oiliness in the skin Sebum Oil in the skin Sensitive Skin Very often dry as well, can become irritated on contact with various substances. Shea Butter Used for its excellent moisturizing and skin penetrating properties. Silicone A mineral based substance, allowing moisture to stay locked in the skin but at the same time allowing oxygen in and out of the follicles. Also used for its smooth, nongreasy feel. Sodium PCA Sodium Pyrollidone Carboxylic acid, helps attract and retain moisture to the skin. SPF Sun Protection Factor Squalane Used for it moisturizing properties. Stratum Corneum Also known as the horny layer, the outermost layer of the skin. Sunblock A method to physically deflect UV rays. Sunflower Oil Used for its smoothing properties, very high in essential fatty acids. Sunscreen A cream or lotion that is SPF rated. It reacts with the skin to create an invisible barrier against the sun. The strength of the barrier is determined by the SPF number. The lower the number the less protection. Using a sunscreen will not prevent you from tanning but it will lower your risk of getting burned. Sunscreens chemically absorb UV rays while sunblocks physically deflect them.
Tannic Acid Encourages bonding of cells that strengthen the barrier function. Also has antioxidant, anti inflammatory, and germicidal properties. Technoceuticals The infusion of technology with advanced skin care Telangiectasia Commonly known as ‘spider veins’, small purple, blue or red veins. These often occur in clusters or branch-like formations, most frequently on the nose and across the cheeks. Often associated with acne rosacea. Titanium Dioxide Active chemical ingredients found in sunblocks to help prevent damage to the skin from the sun. Tocopherol Also known as Vitamin E, primarily serves the body as an antioxidant. Trans Epidermal Water Loss The loss of moisture from within the skin into the atmosphere. Inevitably, some of the cell’s internal water supply will evaporate into the air, but if a good moisturizer and appropriate internal skin care are used consistently and adjusted according to the demands of your internal and external environment, the TEWL is kept to a minimum. Triclosan Anti bacterial agent used in acne treatments.
Vitamin A Used to increase collagen production, a wrinkle fighter and an exfoliant. Vitamin B Increases blood circulation and tissue repair. Vitamin C Known for its anti-oxidant and healing properties. Vitamin E Also known as Tocopherol, primarily serves the body as an antioxidant. Vitamin K Used for its redness reduction properties.
Water principal As we age, the barrier of the cell begins to break down and our cells begin to lose water. The Water Principle is about repairing these cells through supplementation so that the cell barrier is strengthened and the cell is better able to hold onto water. As our cells are repaired, our skin begins to look better because the cells are full of water and the skin is hydrated from the inside out. White head Also known as a closed comedone caused by trapped dead skin cells, oil buildup, bacteria and impurities. Whiteheads appear as small white bumps.
Z
Zinc A trace mineral used to protect the skin from UV light, infection, bacteria and fungi. It also promotes collagen building, enhances the effects of vitamin A and E, and soothes irritation.
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Saturday, 24 November 2007 |
All tonal series have Neutral in them.
Ash and Ash Ash series is dark grey in the lower levels up to violet in the higher levels
Neutral is on the cool side- it have the 3 primary colors of RBY
Iridescent- is a mauve violet base
Beige- is a violet copper gold combo, has a warm/cool tonality
Gold- combo of Gold and Neutral
Warm- combo of red gold and Neutral
Copper Gold- has copper gold with Neutral
Red Brown- has slight red tones but brown dominates
Red - true red tone
Red Red- true red tones- vibrant
Red Violet- red violet with Neutral- red dominates
Violet Red - Violet red tones, violet dominates
500 series same tones as regular SoColor but with added Gold and Neutral
Ul series same tones as regular SoColor
NEUTRAL- preblended meaning equal parts of neutral which also is equal parts cool /warm pigment Natural real pigment count would be warm having more warm red/yellow- pheomelanins and less blues- eumelanin pigments 2/3ths warm 1/3rd cool and the Color Sync Neutral is 1/2warm and 1/2 cool and is considered cool, since cool always dominates.
ASH- preblended; would have neutral and blue/grey in various degrees, the darker levels have different levels of the Blue/ Grey the ratio, at a level 4/5 you have more blue than grey and more of that tone than neutral to counter the underlying pigment at that level which is red/red orange.
As you go up the levels, the blue/grey turns to grey, then to violet to soft violet in the higher level 8/9/10. Again in different ratios to compensate for the ULP.
GOLD- has a brown Base with the neutral warm/cool balance brown in the lower level up to pure gold at the lighter levels.
WARM NEUTRAL- has a brown Base with red & gold undertones, can be used to fill & Color at the same time- it is the perfect caramel Color.
COPPER GOLD- less Neutral Base -neutral and more red brown/blonde; red/brown/gold/copper pigments in various degress with strong copper/gold in the lower levels and light red copper blonde.
RED BROWN/BLONDE- less Neutral Base; gives a red brown in the lower levels with less neutral and red blonde in the lighter levels indifferent ratios.
RED COPPER- VERY little Neutral Base; very vibrant red copper at the lower levels and lighter levels it is more copper red.
RED VIOLET- VERY little Neutral Base; vibrant eggplant at the lower levels to pure violet blue pigment at the ligher levels.
The Blue and Red, Gold are direct dyes that are pure toned. - Mags |
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Saturday, 24 November 2007 |
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Hi All! Here's some info to start making a book of knowledge with.
Types of hair, there are 3 catagories but now with intermarriages, you might have all three on one head.
3 types of hair:
FINE- is 45 to 60 microns in width (1 micron equals 1/25,000 of an inch)
MEDIUM- is 61 TO 90 microns
COARSE- is 91 to 125 and up microns
Now from these 3 types you can have - straight, wavy, curly or kinky/super curly.
If you were to take a hair and cut it in a cross section you'd see that:
straight hair looks round
wavy hair looks oval
curly hair looks almost flat
kinky/super curly looks flat
And all these shapes come from the hair follicle, so straight hair has a round follicle where as curly hair has a oval follicle.
Composition of hair:
Protein- 70 to 80%
Moisture- 10 to 15%
Lipids -3 to 6%
Pigment 1%
Minerals .06 to .5%
Carbohydrates.1 to .5%
So the majority of the hair is made out of protein, proteins are composed of smaller units called amino acids and there are 19 amino acids and cystine is the most dominant of these and it is a sulphur containing amino acid. If you've ever burnt your hair, it smells like rotten eggs!
Hair is built like a rope and when the ends of the hair unravel, it becomes a split end, if you cut off the ends of the hair/rope the hair again is compact but in about 6 to 8 weeks time, it again starts to unravel, so that's why you need to cut the hair within an 8 week cycle. Only 80% is growing at one time, that's why haircuts get out of shape.
The cuticle is the strongest part of hair and has the highest sulpur content which is called the matrix protein (now you know where our name comes from!) and is a transparent substance which holds together the inside of the hair called the cortex.
The pigments granules live in the cortex, granules look like little cars and most are divided into Eumelanin (blue pigments), Pheomelanin (red & yellow pigments) but now & then two cars get together so in one car you'll have a blue, red & yellow which is then called a Mixed Melanin.
Most hispanic, African American, Oriental and Caucasian hair has Mixed Melanins.
Some folks in Hawaii have blue/black hair, that's because they have mostly Eumelanin pigments.
Most folks in Norway & Sweden have white/blonde hair and guess what, they too have the Eumelanin but just a few granules, so your actually seeing the hair fiber called keratin, look down at your nails, that's keratin too, it looks like blonde hair doesn't it? So the folks in Hawaii and the folks in Norway have the same pigment- Eumelanin- but it's the amounts they have that makes the difference, Hawaiians have a lot and Norwegians have just a little and you're see more of the keratin fiber.
Keratin is a non-living protein. As the hair moves from the Papilla (live part) it comes out of the hair follicle and it then takes about 45 days to go thru a process called Keratination - where is harden to become "hair". So hair is dead, what under the skin is alive, what is above the skin is dead, if it wasn't dead, then it would hurt if you got a haircut.
But that also means the first 1/2 inch of hair is not fully harden, so it takes color and perms quicker, that's why if you ever do a perm- don't have the roller band sitting at the scalp, it will break the fragile hair off and that also why you start 1/2 inch out when doing a virgin tint as it will take color fast and with the heat of the scalp even faster still!
The skin has these pigments too and they can give you great clues to help you decide what to use as a haircolor. If your client has a very warm skin color, you'll know that the person will pull warm when you try & color them, so you might need to counter that warmth with a cool color.
You can get scarves of white cream, fushia and red orange to see who is cool or warm that will help you to decide who is warm or cool,
Print this out and start making your book! - Mags Kavanaugh |
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Saturday, 24 November 2007 |
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Why you need to fill the hair: When you bring up someone to lighter levels like 9 or 10 or 11, the natural pigments in the hair are dissolved, they turn into the light pale blonde color and then if someone wants to go back down to a level 6 let's say, there are no pigments to hold onto the color, so the poor little blue & red & gold guys have no one to dance with and they will just leave the (hair) party because they have no one to play with, but adding back the pigments allows the color to stick into the hair and now when you add the final result color it will stick.
It's like priming a canvas before you color so the pigments stick better to the canvas.
With CDC we have a series called WN - warm naturals you can fill & color at the same time and not have to do two steps. Or you can add the Orange corrector into the formula to get a filler into the main formula.
So if you need to do a tint back make sure you either fill first or use the WN series so you can fill & color at the same time.
So filling puts back the pigments that color has taken out and you must fill if going 2 or more levels down. Our new line coming out called the Ammonia Free Demi Permanents you will be able to take the color right out of the tube to fill the hair with and then go right over it with your end result formula, how easy will that be!!! - Mags |
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Saturday, 24 November 2007 |
This was a question ablout Extra Blonding Creme and the UL series, how it's NOT in the Socolor Handbook:
That is correct - it is NOT in the color manuel but on the sheet that comes with the formulation center [new one] that you are supposed to hang up in the despensary.
It's under the ADDITIVES colume in the middle of the page in blue print.
It states: Do not use with the Ultra Light Blonde series.
It tells you how to use it first, then says not to use it with the UL series.
It used to be in the old Logics and then when they brought out the now old black unit, they said to add it in the 12 series and in the new brown Consultation Center it states that you can add it again:
Boosting Colorcremes lifting action:
We can also add Logics Gel Lightener to our Colorcremes Formulas to slightly increase the lifting ability of the formula.
Add 1/2oz. Logics Gel Lightener to 2 oz. Logics Colorcremes and 3oz. of Logics Color Generator.
Notice that you need to add 3oz. of Genenrator and when you do this, know that you are losing the deposit strength.
Now with all that said, we were always told not to add it to the 12 series for just that reason, the 12 series has special dyes that help to counter the contributing pigment and if you deplete those the contributing pigment will show threw more.
I do NOT put it in, to me if you need more lift, then 1/2oz. of Gel Lightener is NOT going to give it to you, it even state- SLIGHTLY INCREASE THE LIFTING ABILITY- that's not enough to lift levels, just more of the pigment out.
So to answer your question , I would not add it to the 12 series for the same reason you don't for the Socolor UL series, it takes away the toning ability of the color to cut the underlying or contributing pigment. - Mags
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