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Saturday, 22 December 2007 |
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This was an email Michael Quick got from Dr Lee Hunter from Grund:
December 19, 2007
Hi Michael, it's great to hear from you!
The answer to the question is that it is both the ammonia and the peroxide that damage hair. More importantly, the combination is much more damaging to hair than either one of them alone.
Peroxide is a strong oxidizer and has two beneficial and necessary functions with oxidation hair color (permanent hair color.) First, it oxidizes melanin and other artificial color in hair to decolorize the hair. Second, it is the oxidizer that causes the color intermediate molecules to react chemically with the coupler molecules to actually create color inside the hair.
The third thing that peroxide does is to break covalent bonds of the keratin protein of the hair cuticle and cortex; damaging the hair.
Ammonia, or other alkaline substitutes like MEA (monethanoamine), cause the hair cuticle and cortex to swell. Ammonia also performs three beneficial and necessary functions in oxidation hair color. First is that it opens up the pores of the cuticle so the large dye intermediate molecules and large coupler molecules can penetrate into the cortex of the hair where they react with peroxide to form permanent color molecules. The second very beneficial function of ammonia is that it promotes the penetration of the color and coupler molecules through the pores of the cuticle and into the cortex. The third necessary function of ammonia is that it raises the pH in the hair to about pH 10, which promotes rapid and efficient oxidation of the melanin and artificial color molecules by the peroxide. Without this higher pH, dye intermediate and coupler molecules will not penetrate very deep into the cortex and peroxide will not decolorize (bleach) the melanin and you just get the oxidation reaction to form color (This is Demi-Color)
Without ammonia, peroxide is not very damaging to hair (Demi Color). Without peroxide, ammonia is not very damaging to hair (semi-permanent color).
I hope you all find this educational.
Incidentally, this question is very relevant to Grund Products. As you know, Tiger Reconstructor, when applied to the hair before color and dried into the hair, levels out the porosity along the length of the hair replacing the need for fillers.
Next, when Tiger Reconstructor is added to color, ten squirts per 4 oz color or bleach, the Tiger Catalyst prevents much of the damage that peroxide would normally do during bleaching or coloring. It does this because Tiger Catalyst is very strong chemical agent for making covalent bonds at the same time as the peroxide tries to break covalent bonds. The ?Tiger Catalyst Covalent bond-making force is stronger than the peroxide Covalent bond breaking force! Tiger wins!
The second benefit of the Tiger Catalyst and Tiger Protein inside the hair during coloring is that it locks in the color molecules and protects them from degradation over time.
The third benefit of having Tiger Reconstructor inside the hair during coloring and bleaching is that the ProFaCil Complex fills in the damaged areas with the ProCil protein/silicon molecule, rendering the optical properties of the hair to be just like a crystal. The result is that the hair color is more brilliant and more natural looking.
Whew! What a long answer to a short question!
Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Lee Hunter, Ph. D.
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Thursday, 20 December 2007 |
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This was a question that Michael answered very well. I need a chemistry lesson, is someone willing to expound on protein treatments? I read on another thread, southernguy (i think) said that cat works as a decoy protein for bleach when applied to hair and allowed to soak in before bleach is applied. 1. What is happening when Tiger is added straight into a color or bleach when mixing? as in chemically, to the hair? 2. why wouldn't colors and bleach come with a flex-protein already added? should they? are there any situations in which one should not add tiger to the mix, since you can't over-proteinize with it (as in, not when it may be unnecessary, but could it ever be harmful) ? 3. hypothetically: if i had a highlighted client who wanted all-over light blond hair, and i saturated her hair with cat beforehand (or added tiger to the bleach), would foiling out the already highlighted pieces be unnecessary, since the added protein treatment would act as a decoy and protect the already-highlighted strands? (or perhaps it wouldn't completely protect those strands, but would prevent them from melting off, in which case it would be better to go ahead and foil them out, no need to put more stress on the hair than necessary?) 4. I read on another thread that ppt and cat work differently, if you imagined the hair as a double-helix "ladder", the ppt would work on the vertical bars and the cat on the horizontal "rungs", so as a general rule, use ppt first so the "rungs" have something to hold onto when you use the cat: a. how does tiger work compared to these? b. would a complete conditioning treatment (to help rebuild over processed hair) involve ppt, then cat, then a moisturizing treatment like the all soft butter-treat rather than just putting one of these on the hair like I've seen most of the stylists where I work do? c. that thread also said that ppt wasn't around anymore, but we have a near-empty bottle of it in the cupboard at work...was it discontinued recently, or perhaps they are still making it and perhaps i misread? -waverly This is Southernguy's answer to Waverly 1. What is happening when Tiger is added straight into a color or bleach when mixing? as in chemically, to the hair? IT ACTS AS A DECOY PROTEIN WHEN APPLIED TO THE BLEACH. HELPS TO FORTIFY THE HAIR AND INCREASES THE REFLECTIVITY OF THE CORTEX OF THE HAIR PROVIDING MORE CRYTSL LIKE SHINE ..THIS IS FROM DR. HUNTER 2. why wouldn't colors and bleach come with a flex-protein already added? MY GUESS IS THEY WOULD NOT HOLD UP AS THEY WOULD NEED TO BE IN THE DEVELOPER should they? are there any situations in which one should not add tiger to the mix, since you can't over-proteinize with it (as in, not when it may be unnecessary, but could it ever be harmful) ?NOT ONE SINGLE CASE WHERE IT COULDN"T BE USED OR NEEDED 3. hypothetically: if i had a highlighted client who wanted all-over light blond hair, and i saturated her hair with cat beforehand (or added tiger to the bleach), would foiling out the already highlighted pieces be unnecessary, since the added protein treatment would act as a decoy and protect the already-highlighted strands? (or perhaps it wouldn't completely protect those strands, but would prevent them from melting off, in which case it would be better to go ahead and foil them out, no need to put more stress on the hair than necessary?) YOU CAN STILL MELT THE CORTEX OF THE HAIR. NOTHING CAN KEEP YOU FROM OVER LIGHTENING THE HAIR. THE PROTEIN WON"T HELP IN THIS CASE BECAUSE IF YOU COMPLETELY DESTROY T HE NATURAL PROTEIN IN THE HAIR THE TIGER OR CAT HAS NOTHING TO ATTACH TO 4. I read on another thread that ppt and cat work differently, if you imagined the hair as a double-helix "ladder", the ppt would work on the vertical bars and the cat on the horizontal "rungs", so as a general rule, use ppt first so the "rungs" have something to hold onto when you use the cat: a. how does tiger work compared to these? GOOD QUESTION, FROM WHAT I UNDERSTAND IT DOES BOTH SECTIONS, BUT I SENT AN EMAIL TO ASK THAT SPECIFICALLY b. would a complete conditioning treatment (to help rebuild over processed hair) involve ppt, then cat, then a moisturizing treatment like the all soft butter-treat rather than just putting one of these on the hair like I've seen most of the stylists where I work do? FOR REDKEN IT USED TO BE THIS: PPT, CAT, PPT, CAT, EXTREME FOR THE OLD FORMULAS NOW YOU CAN USE THE CHEMISTRY SYSTEM AND IX THE PROTEIN AND THE MOISTURE c. that thread also said that ppt wasn't around anymore, but we have a near-empty bottle of it in the cupboard at work...was it discontinued recently, or perhaps they are still making it and perhaps i misread? THE ORIGINAL PPT S-77 HAS LONG BEEN DISCONTINUED. THERE WAS A NEW EXTREME PPT THAT CAME OUT AFTERWARDS. I THINK IT IS AROUND STILL BUT NOT 100% FOR SURE. THE CHEMISTRY SYSTEM TOOK THE PLACE OF ALL OF REDKENS RECONSTRUCTORS AND DEEP CONDITINOERS FOR PROFESSIONAL USE __________________ Michael Quick Color Expert for AskMags.com http://www.myspace.com/mastercolorist Waverly answers back- Would you recommend the grund treatments over the redken chemistry system? I defintely prefer the Grund over the Redken and I have been using Redken for 17 years. __________________ Michael Quick Color Expert for AskMags.com http://www.myspace.com/mastercolorist Then Jill asks a question: What is a decoy protein?-Jill Sountedernguy answers- basically it is a term used where the additinal protein added to the color is eaten up instead of the protein out of the hair. Basically you are replacing the proteina s fast as the color or bleach can eat it out...very simplistic explination but fairly accurate __________________ Michael Quick Color Expert for AskMags.com http://www.myspace.com/mastercolorist Another question is asked by Linda: Just a question on this subject. I put Tiger in my bleach yesterday. I was doing a cap H/L on short hair. She is salt and pepper. I use blonder with 40 vol. I put her under heat. She is usually very tenacious and takes about 20 mins. I checked her in 8 mins and she was READY. Would the addition of the Tiger speed up the action of the bleach? There was no previous bleach on her hair. -lindatb Tiger contains no oils so it will not accelerate any processing...more than the recommended amount will slow the processing down. I have never experienced any speed up in processing during use. Michael Quick Color Expert for AskMags.com http://www.myspace.com/mastercolorist Care answers: Linda - this if just on the off chance that the client uses this but Mags told me that the CDC Crystal Fluids will speed up the bleach because it is an oil. Does she use this or did you by chance smooth it over her hair before pulling thru the cap? Thanks!! -Care I answer: Protein won't speed up the action of bleach. Proteins: PPTS-77- Catipeptide was a positively charged amino acid protein CPP Catipeptide- had twice as many peptides - poly meaning 4 and peptide is the amino acid so you have 4 repeating peptide chains, but these were hydrolyzed to a specific shape & weight, so in one protein it filled in damage the size of bolders, rocks, pebbles and sand. They also lasted longer too than normal proteins. CAT- derived from whole cystine proteins -keratin & soy that were combinded with the amino acid Taurine to get into the hair faster remaijn longer and helped to prevent further damage, and had plant oils to help retain the moisture in the hair and not kick it out like Proteins normally do. What the new types of treatments do like Ceramides, thesew work with the same elements as the cemet in between your cuticle layers do, it helps hold everything tight together. As hair gets damaged it expands and the hair fibers start to break apart, this is where the Ceramide & carbohydrates come into play by binding the fibers back together, but the great thing they dissapate out of the hair ever so slowly that they really end up building up on themselves with weekly treatments and they also bind moisture to the hair. Remember I said a long time ago companies buy other companies for their patents, the CPP Catipeptide patent that Redken was so valuable, that is why L'Oreal bought Redken. Dr. Lee Hunter invented Tiger and did indeed make it so it can't over proteinize the hair, so for that reason it's OK. __________________ Mags Kavanaugh Expert for AskMags.com National Education Director for Haircared.com, Compagnia Del Colore and Roverhair featuring SoMaterial and Power Addict International Brand Ambassador for Compagnia Del Colore |
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Tuesday, 18 December 2007 |
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Tuesday, 18 December 2007 |
Blonde Icing Conditioning Cream lightener contains a lush cream formula that silkens, luminizes and lifts hair to the palest shades of blonde. Exclusive Lumisilk Technology smoothes and preserves hair's cellular structure to keep it healthy, shiny, and strong.
Up to 7 de-dusted lightener lifts hair up to 7 levels with predictable extra light results. Up to 7 mixes protects as it lightens with an exclusive conditioning agent.
Blonde Dimensions dust-free conditioning lightener lifts hair up to 6 levels with its gentle, buffered alkali formula that produces balanced and consistent lift. Dust-free formula eliminates dust when mixing or scooping and an encapsulated fragrance releases upon mixing for a pleasant scent during processing.
Lift 5/15 crème highlighting system lifts hair up to 5 levels in 15 minutes (with heat). This gental, no ammonia formula is for all hair types and textures.
Shades EQ dust-free lightening crystals lifts hair up to 6 levels and its dust-free powder minimizes flyaways. The thickened formula stays moist and won't drip or dry out.
Levitation balanced decolorizing system lifts hair up to 6 levels and an accelerated initial lift with maximum control for faster, balanced results. Gel-cream viscosity mixes smoothly and won't run or dry out.
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2008-08-22 
English 
2.35 MB Downloads: 30
A mild waving system that is gentle to the hair and scalp. Leaves hair soft with springy, natural looking curls.
A "conditioner-activated" 4-component acid wave, featuring one formula for all hair types. A gentle wave that delivers conditioned, soft natural curls. 
Humidity resistant wave that provides protection against humidity and delivers bouncy, long-lasting curls that won't frizz.
A conditioning 2-component buffered Alkaline wave. Taurine fortified wave. One formula for all hair types up to 50% highlighted. Evens porosity as it perms. 
Exothermic and dual conditioning wave. Offers conditioned, firm, resilient curls with added lift at the scalp.