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Saturday, 22 March 2008 |
The hairs' ability to stretch and retain its natural shape is very important in
many ways.
The hair is elastic because of hydrogen bonds. Hydrogen bonds (h-bonds or H-bonds)
are electro magnetic bonds and may be broken by nearly any aqueous substance
or compound. They are affected by pH and electrolytes too.
Water breaks H-bonds and causes them to go to a "beta" state (the
point of greatest weakness.) The reverse is true also, H-bonds devoid of most
moisture brings them to an "alpha" state which is the point of greatest
strength.
Acidic solutions also add a positive electron to the bonds, creating elasticity.
The opposite is true also. Electrolytic solutions such as potassium, magnesium,
sodium, and many others add a positive "kick" to the H-bond, creating
elasticity.
This is one major important feature in acid balanced shampoos and conditioners.
A pH below 3.0 (approx.) tend to degrade the hair though. A pH of 3.0 to 3.5
is optimal.
How to get the effective body & bounce:
Body & Bounce are a direct reflection of elasticity. When a client says,
"My hair gets limp, has no body, lays flat, etc.. They are telling you,
"My H-Bonds need help. They are going to a Beta state when I want them
to go Alpha.
They need a low pH, electrolytes, or less humectants", which means they
need a pH of 4.5 to 6 and less moisture to their conditioner.
As an owner/stylist you know this. The trick is convening the necessary information
to the client in terms they can understand. If you read the following you will:
- Look like a super star to your clients.
- Have your clients with natural elasticity (spring and bounce).
- Gain new clients as a result.
- When a client says, "I have tried {conditioners}, they make my hair go
limp." Explain, "Yes they will, you need an acidifier instead. It
is not a conditioner but rather the opposite. Acidifiers add body; they do not
cause the hair to go limp. That is why they were created!"
Now you have to recommend an acidifier. Here are some:
- Roverhair’s Power Addict #2- the best out there!
- Matrix Amplify Conditioner
- Aveda Confixor Conditioning Fixative
- ABBA Thickening Conditioner
- Back to Basics Volumizing Conditioner
- Goldwell Shine & Vitality
- ISO Daily Detangle
- Joico Integrity
- Kuene Volumizer
Some but not all Acidifiers can be used daily. They are the most beneficial product
a client can purchase. Acidifiers also, detangle, and add shine.
How H Bonds affect the "frizzies"
Again, water breaks H-bonds and cause them to go beta. In high humidity climates
this is a big problem. Also, with fine hair. Humectants in the hair draw moisture
in to the cortex. This in turn breaks the H-bonds, and causes lack of elasticity.
Slight moisture variances cause the "frizzies". There are several
ways to correct the situation.
- 1) Add a silicone based product to the hair. These products do not work well
with fine hair but are poor humectants and will not much if any moisture into
the hair.
- Add a gel, spray, or spray gel to your clients daily schedule. This will
provide a barrier to moisture.
- Add a liquid (aqueous) protein schedule. This will take up room in the cortex
normally used by moisture. NOT A CREME BASED PROTEIN as they will have a moisture
base to them.
pH & Protein Weights
An understanding of hair products chemistry will greatly enhance your credibility
with your clients as well as make your finished style picture perfect. We welcome
any input you make offer to make this site the top professional site in the
world.
pH's (see H-Bonds)
Let's start with pH. Firstly, DRY hair has no pH. Only aqueous solutions have
pH's. When hair is in an aqueous solution it normally has a pH of 4.5 to 5.5
the skin does too. One of the most beneficial treatments hair can have is to
be acidified. pH's of 3.0 to 3.5 will not only close the cuticle but more importantly
compact it.
This:
- Adds natural shine - (light reflects off a smooth surface)
- Detangles - Cuticle layer can not "grab" each other.
- Adds elasticity - The lower the pH, it higher the positive charge. This in
turn brings hydrogen bonds from a beta state (weak) to and alpha state (strong).
Hydrogen bonds account for nearly 100% of the hair's elasticity.
- Locks in moisture and protein - A compacted cuticle will not allow evaporation
or dissociation as much as an open cuticle.
Contrary to belief, most shampoos has a pH lower than 7.0 (neutral). The key
is to bring the pH down much lower. pH's lower than 3.0 can have adverse effects
during prolonged use. Example) lemon juice has a pH of ~2.5.
Acidifiers will benefit all hair types. No client should leave a salon without
one. Clients with baby fine hair will love the benefits as well as thick porous
hair clients.
Protein Weights
Everyone wants to claim the best shampoo, conditioner, rinse etc..
Many companies will base their claims on molecular weights. Here are some guidelines.
- High mol. weights are not necessarily bad. In many cases they are the best.
- Low mol. weights are not necessarily the best. In many cases they are.
- Generally and combination of high and low weights are the best.
Here is why the above is true.
Let's take soy protein. It has a high weight (one of the highest). It does little
to the cortex but it does help the cuticle immensely.
Some companies claim to have mol. weights of hair protein around 150-300. This
helps the cortex but it does little for the cuticle.
Some companies by-pass protein and use synthetics (mostly polymers)(the hair
is a polymer too), they have tremendous weights. They do work to the hair that
proteins simply can't.
In our opinion a combination of weights is the best. Also, many proteins have
advantages regardless of size. Wheat protein won't break down at pH's up to
9.0! It tends to "plump" the hair too. A side note to the "no
animal" protein folks. Hydrolyzed animal protein is fine. It comes from
hoof, feathers, skins, etc., from the meat industry. It make no difference if
you choose not to use it. If you don't it will be thrown away (no less will
be "produced".) Personally would rather see it used than trashed.
No company raises animals to make animal protein for any hair care product.
This is a myth. The only way to stop animal protein in hair care is to stop
eating meat.
Salon Management
Salon management should be run like any other business. Many salon owners say,
“This business is different." It is not. Business is business.
TIPS:
- Set standards. Have a 3 strike rule with employees or renters. In the long
run you will benefit for being known as a good business person. You run the
salon, don't let the salon run you.
- Put the standards in writing. Have each employee or renter sign it.
- There are no misunderstandings this way.
- Have weekly meetings. Let employees /renters vent. Also, paint a picture
of what is new, and what to expect.
- Give Praise. Conduct monthly reviews. If someone has gone the "extra
mile" reward them. It may be in money or better yet in recognition.
- Train your staff. The extra dollars it may cost you to take them to a show
or an event will solidify your group. In the long run you will win. Also, have
in house training at least once a month. Make it mandatory. Most manufactures
provide free classes. A stylist that does not attend is one you do not need
(there are exceptions of course.)
- Create a design team. Stylists are a dime a dozen. A true design team is
worth a million. Make this part of your plan. Advertise it. Promote it.
- Learn from the experts. Watch your competition. If they are successful, do
what they do.
- Be different. When was the last time you took your staff to breakfast? When
was the last time you had an anniversary party, and treated your staff to steaks
or a good meal? When did you last advertise? Are you offering stylists their
own web pages? When was the last time you offered a day (one day) when all stylists
got 100% commission on products?
OVAL Shape Face
Ovals are considered the ideal face shape. This shape can wear any design with
flair! Bobbed, layered, close / full / long or short, just about any style will
suit this balanced shape. However, you must take into consideration your facial
features. Do you want to play up your eyes or your nose. Bangs for instance
can accent your eyes, while hair off the forehead can balance your nose in profile
view. Your hair type will also determine the best style. If natural curly hair,
wavy or straight, make it part of your style. Your facial shape is only the
starting point.
SQUARE Shape Face
Soften the edges of a square shaped face by directing soft wavy bangs down over
your temples. Long hair should fall to, or past shoulders. For a short style,
keep hair style round and soft with height at the crown. If pulled up, play
with wisps of hair around the face. However, you must take into consideration
your facial features. Do you want to play up your eyes or your nose. Bangs for
instants can accent your eyes, while hair off the forehead can balance your
nose in profile view. Your hair type will also determine the best style. If
natural curly or wavy make it part of your style. Your facial shape is only
the starting point for selecting a suitable hair style.
ROUND Shape Face
The goal is to create an oval appearance and lift the face. keep the sides close
to the face and promote height at the crown.. Looking for a classic modern style,
a layered Shag is the perfect shape for a round face. For short shape, close
sideburn wisps soften and flatter the face. However, you must take into consideration
your facial features. Do you want to play up your eyes or your nose. Bangs for
instants can accent your eyes, while hair off the forehead can balance your
nose in profile view. Your hair type will also determine the best style. If
natural curly, wavy or straight, make it part of your style. Your facial shape
is only the starting point.
DIAMOND Shape Face
To balancing a narrow chin, your best look is a rounded shape with fullness
at the bottom. Wide wispy bangs help to create a oval look. The classic look
for diamonds is a graduated bob that falls to the chin. try a wispy design to
soften the edges. However, you must take into consideration your facial features.
Do you want to play up your eyes or your nose. Bangs for instants can accent
your eyes, while hair off the forehead can balance your nose in profile view.
Your hair type will also determine the best style. If natural curly, wavy or
straight, make it part of your style. Your facial shape is only the starting
point.
PEAR Shape Face
Focus on a full crown at top to create symmetry with the wide jaw. Layered looks,
like the classic Shag flatter the Pear shape face. Tuck hair behind behind your
ear so as to not draw attention to your cheeks. Short hair should not pass the
neckline. While long looks should be kept tight at the nape. However, you must
take into consideration your facial features. Do you want to play up your eyes
or your nose. Bangs for instants can accent your eyes, while hair off the forehead
can balance your nose in profile view. Your hair type will also determine the
best style. If natural curly, wavy or straight, make it part of your style.
Your facial shape is only the starting point.
HEART Shaped Face
Heart shape faces need a softer, curlier style. a chin length
look is Perfect. The objective....to create width around your narrow chin. Side
slanted bangs draw attention away from the jaw line. Best look, full curly /
wavy bouncy. However, you must take into consideration your facial features.
Do you want to play up your eyes or your nose. Bangs for instants can accent
your eyes shorten the forehead, while hair off the face can balance your nose
in profile view. Your hair type will also determine the best style. If natural
curly, wavy, straight, make it part of your style. Your facial shape is only
the starting point.
RECTANGLE Shaped Face
Go for width and volume. Suitable short style include the Wedge design, while
long manes in a full styles that falls at, or above the shoulder. Bangs look
great when just touching the brows and help to shorten a long shaped face. However,
you must take into consideration your facial features. Do you want to play up
your eyes or your nose. Bangs for instants can accent your eyes, while hair
off the forehead can balance your nose in profile view. Your hair type will
also determine the best style. If natural curly, wavy or straight, make it part
of your style. Your facial shape is only the starting point.
The Structure of Your Hairhairskin.gif
Hair Structure
We will begin by defining the hair. Hair is composed primarily of proteins
(88%). These proteins are of a hard fibrous type known as keratin. Keratin protein
is comprised of what we call "polypeptide chains.” The word, polypeptide,
comes from the Greek word "poly" meaning many and "peptos"
meaning digested or broken down. In essence, if we break down protein, we have
individual amino acids. Many (poly) amino acids joined together form a "polypeptide
chain". Two amino acids are joined together by a "peptide bond",
and the correct number of amino acids placed in their correct order will form
a specific protein; i.e. keratin, insulin, collagen and so on. The "alpha
helix" is the descriptive term given to the polypeptide chain that forms
the keratin protein found in human hair. Its structure is a coiled coil. The
amino acids link together to form the coil and there are approximately 3.6 amino
acids per turn of the helix (coil). Each amino acid is connected together by
a "peptide bond". The peptide bond is located between the carbon atom
of one amino acid extending to bond with the nitrogen atom of the next amino
acid.
The A Helix Coil
In the organization of a single hair, three "alpha helices" are twisted
together to form a "Protofibril". This is actually the first fibril
structure of the hair. Nine Protofibrils are then bundled in a circle around
two or more to form an eleven-stranded cable known as the "Microfibril".
These Microfibrils are embedded in an amphorous unorganized protein matrix of
high sulfur content, and hundreds of such microfibrils are cemented into an
irregular fibrous bundle called a "macrofibril". These macrofibrils
are grouped together to form the cortex (or the main body) layers of the hair
fiber. Packed dead cells surround these structures and are known as the cuticular
layers of the hair. In the center of these structures lies the medullary canal,
which is actually apart of the excretory system and houses any foreign debris,
heavy metals, synthetics and medications that are thrown off by the body and
eventually released through the canal.
Bonding in Keratin Protein
When the hair is in its normal unstretched state. It is referred to as A of
alpha keratin. The original configuration of the hair is held in place by the
bonding found in the cortex layers of the hair. As we stated earlier, keratin
protein begins with an alpha helix building into protofibrils, microfibrils,
macrofibrils, then cortex layers. The bonds in the hair are located within each
and every alpha helix.
The Hydrogen Bond
The first bond we will discuss is the hydrogen bond. This bond is located between
the coils of the alpha helix and is responsible for the ability of the hair
to be stretched elasticity) and return back to its original shape. The hydrogen
bonds allow us to change the shape of the hair temporarily with the aid of water.
These bonds are electrolytically controlled and are the most readily broken
down and the most readily reformed. These bonds are responsible for approximately
35% of the strength of the hair and 50% of the hair's elasticity (some would
argue up to 99.9% of the hair’s elasticity).
The Salt Bond
The salt bond is also an ionic (electrolytically controlled) bond formed by
the electron transfer from the side chain of a basic amino group (an amino acid
with an 00C- group) to the side chain of an acidic amino acid, i.e. NH3+. (This
is two positive and negative charges attracting one another.) This occurs in
a position paralleled to the axis line of the rotation of the helix of the hair.
The salt bond is responsible for approximately 35% of the strength of the hair
and 50% of the hair's elasticity.
The Cystine Bond
The cystine bond also known as the disulfide bond, sulfur bond, or just S bond
is formed by cross-links between cystine residues (amino acids) of the main
polypeptide chains. This bond is perpendicular to the axis of the hair and between
the polypeptide chains. Because of its position in the hair, it is responsible
for the hair's toughness or abrasion resistance. (It actually holds the hair
fibers together.) These cross-links are frequent in the hair fiber, with maximum
of frequency of one cystine bond every four turns of the alpha helix. This is
what enables us to permanent wave the hair.
The Sugar Bond
The sugar bond is formed between the side chain of an amino acid having an
OH group and an acidic amino group. This bond is also formed perpendicular to
the axis of the hair. Because of its position, it gives the hair toughness but
little strength (5%). Some moisture is contributed to the hair as a by-product
of this bonding.
Isn't hair fun! :)
General Facts about Hair
Scientists claim that human beings will increasingly loose their hair, resulting
in a totally naked being. Many hundred years have however to pass by until this
awful prophecy will become true. Until then we have enough time to study and
understand the life of hair.
Hair is actually dead material when it leaves it's root - otherwise it would
hurt very much when your hairdresser works with his scissor. Most people know
about this fact, but did you know about other facts: On a normal scalp there
are about 100-150 thousand hair fibers. A blonde head of hair has usually much
more fibers than red or dark haired heads. Hair consists mainly of keratin,
which is also responsible for the elasticity of fingernails. A single hair has
a thickness of 0.02-0.04mm, so that 20-50 hair fibers next to each other make
one millimeter. Hair is strong as a wire of iron. It rips after applying a force
equivalent to 60kg, after it stretched itself for about 70%.
The root of a hair fiber sticks in a bag in the skin. The fiber is pushed out
of this bag about 0.35mm per day, making an average growth rate of 1cm, or half
of an inch, per month. The growth rate is however very much related to the individual
person, his age, his diet etc.
Healthy hair has an average lifetime of 2-6 years. After a rest period of three
months the single hair falls out, and a new fiber starts to grow out of the
bag. The lifetime depends on circumstances and person, too. The lifetime of
hair is responsible for the maximum of hair length you can have. Waist length
hair takes about 6 years to grow out from a short hair cut, periodic trims included.
If your hair has a lifecyle of 2 years, you will never achieve a nice waist
length mane.
The short and sweet of hair chemistry and how it effects your hair....
article by Mike Trobee ® 1996
I get questions everyday via email and in salons. " I have dry hair, I
have limp hair, I have....what do I do?" The answer lies in knowing about
your hair chemistry. Heat (blow dryers, irons, rollers, etc.) rob the hair of
moisture and essential fatty acids. Chemicals do the same (perms, color, relaxers...)
Mechanical damage is important also - (brushing wet hair, combing, teasing,
etc) can have negative effects on the cuticle layer of the hair.
So now how do we correct the problems? First, let's start by solving concerns
BEFORE they start. Everyone ought to have:
*
o
+ A detangling comb
+ A thermal protector (ie. Sunset Hair Elements "Thermal Protector")
+ A good salon brand shampoo ( See Click Here)
+ A good salon brand acidifier (a conditioner with a pH 3.0) [See Hair Repair
Treatment]
+ A good leave in conditioner with UV protectors [ See Volume Conditioner]
+ A blow dryer with a "cool" setting
+ A good styling tool - gel, spray gel, foam
+ A good working hair spray [Paul Mitchell® "Fast Drying Sculpting
Spray"]
+ A good finishing spray [Paul Mitchell® "Freeze and Shine"]
Most professional designers have these and that is why your hair feels so good
when you leave the salon.
- The detangling com is designed to be used on damp hair. Start at the ends
and work up.
- A thermal protector STOPS heat damage before it starts. Then there is no
need to buy a "heavy duty reconstructor".
- Most salon brand shampoos have a pH 4.5-5.5 and use gentle cleansers. Also
generally they are more concentrated.
- An acidifying conditioner compacts the cuticle. It detangles, adds body,
adds natural shine, increases the alpha bonds in the hair - it is a must.
- The sun and tanning beds will cause chaos with the hair. Make sure your
conditioner has plenty of sunscreen.
- A "cool" setting on a dryer actually helps "set" the
hair. It cause little damage.
- A good foam. gel, spray gel... will add body and help your style.
- A good "working spray" will aid you when blow drying, setting,
sculpting, or using irons. It is a hair spray that can be applied to damp (if
you wish) or dry hair.
- Get a good 'finishing spray" - unlike a "working spray" a
finishing spray will keep the hair or sections of the hair in place all day.
- A last tip...do not do perms or color at home. Yes, you will spend less
upfront but a cosmetologist will probably have to correct the damage. In the
long run it will cost more.
Different pepople have different colors of hair:
Black, blond, and brown. What makes the color of hair different? The answer
lies in melanophore. The hair roots contain pigment cells called melanin, which
creates a black pigment. Melanophore is a chromatophore that sends pigment to
new hair. The greater the amount of pigment sent to the hair, the darker the
hair becomes. On the contrary, as the amount of pigment sent is reduced, the
hair color turns brown and then blond. Some people believe that differences
in hair color are caused by the differences in the intensity of ultraviolet
rays contained in the sunlight, to which the hair is exposed.
Baby hair begins to grow around the third month after conception within the
womb of the mother. {Trichocysts} are first formed. They develop into hair follicles
as the fetus grows, then become downy hairs several centimeters long when the
baby is born. The total number of hairs is determined before the baby is born.
After that, the number of hairs never increases. It just decreases. The number
of hairs greatly varies for each person, from sixty thousand to one hundred
and fifty thousand, and makes up one of natural characteristics of each person
when they are born. We should take good care of our hair.
Human beings have about one million and four hundred thousand hairs on their
body, with about four hundred and fifty thousand of them to be found above the
neck. These hairs include about one hundred thousand hairs on the head and about
thirty thousand hairs taken up by mustaches, beards, or whiskers. The figure
below illustrates average lengths of the hair (when it is left to grow naturally)
and growth rates per day. The hairs on the head grow by about one centimeter
per month and reach a length of around 70 centimeters if they are not cut. Hair
grows at a faster rate in the spring and summer than in autumn and winter.
Average length and growth rate per day :
- Hairs on the head 70cm / 0.35mm
- Eyebrows ‚Qcm / 0.15mm
- Mustaches (beards or whiskers) 28cm / 0.4mm
- Armpit hairs ‚Scm / 0.3mm
- Pubic hairs ‚Ucm / 0.2mm
What do Nails reveal about your health?
Take a look at your fingernails. Are they strong and healthy-looking? Or do
you see ridges, or areas of unusual color or shape? The condition of your nails
may offer clues to your general health. Illness
can cause changes in your nails that your doctor can use to develop a diagnose.
Here are a few nail disorders that may be linked with illnesses:
Beau's lines — Indentations that run across your nail. This can appear
when growth at the matrix (nail root) is disturbed by severe illness such as
a heart attack, measles, or pneumonia.
Clubbing — Your fingertips widen and become round while the nails curve
around your fingertips. Caused by enlargement in connective tissue as compensation
for a chronic lack of oxygen. Lung disease is present in 80 percent of people
who have clubbed fingers.
Half-and-Half (Lindsay's nails) — Look for an arc of brownish discoloration.
May appear in a small percentage of people who have a kidney disorder.
Onycholysis (ON-i-ko-LY-sis) — The nail separates from the nail bed.
Most of the time, this problem is associated with physical injury (trauma),
psoriasis, drug reactions, fungal disease or contact dermatitis from using nail
hardeners. Sometimes onycholysis can be related related to an over- or under-active
thyroid gland, iron deficiency, or syphilis.
Spoon nails — Soft nails that look scooped out. Depression is usually
large enough to hold a drop of liquid. This condition often indicates iron deficiency.
Terry's nails — The nail looks opaque and white, but the nail tip has
a dark pink to brown band. This can be a symptom of cirrhosis, congestive heart
failure, adult-onset diabetes, cancer, or aging.
*Remember that the nail conditions described above are in no way deffinitive
proof of a bigger health problem. Please consult with a medical professional
for a reliable diagnosis.
Paronychia is an inflammation of the nail folds commonly caused by constant
exposure to moisture. Exposure to bacteria or fungus can often cause a secondary
infection accompanied by painful swelling of the nail fold. If the infection
goes untreated for an extended period of time, the nail plate can become deformed.
Paronychia can be treated by draining the infected nail fold, taking oral antibiotics,
or using a topical antifungal or antiseptic lotion. If you have paronychia it's
best to avoid prolonged exposure to water (eg. washing dishes), or try wearing
gloves.
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