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Friday, 24 March 2006 |
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Here's a chart of the Amino Acids in hair:
AMINO ACIDS OF THE HAIR
It is necessary to be familiar with the compounds found in hair. These are, basically, amino acids (proteins) and trace elements. This knowledge will be valuable for your study of the lessons on keratinization and pigmentation as well as the modules covering the trichological problems and hair care processes.
The four main amino acids found in the hair are: cystine, which is a sulphur- containing amino acid and accounts for 16 to 18% of the proteins in the hair; glutamic acid, 13 to 14% of the proteins; arginine, 8 to 11%, and serine, 7 to 11%. Each of these amino acids is representative of a different group of amino acids.
Hair is dead as a door nail!!!, At least the part you can see is, the live part is under your scalp and producing more cells to make more hair, which grows about 1/2 inch per month.
Hair is made out of a non-living protein called Keratin which are long chains of proteins formed of Amino Acids, which are held together by peptide bonds.
Keratin is made out of 5 elements: Carbon,Hydrogen,Oxygen,Nitrogen and Sulpher or CHONS, which is a good way to remember this if you are going to be tested!
Hair is 80% protein which gives strength & body.
15% moisture which gives flexablity and softness.
6% lipids that balances moisture content & keeps the hair supple.
1% pigments which colors the hair.
And the rest are minerals & carbohydrates, elements that the hair is made up of and the intercellular cement that keeps hair intact.
Hair is built like a rope with coiled layers apond layers of coils that wrap around each other which helps to make the hair elastic, it can keep the hair from snapping if pulled to hair, but that only when it's healthy. The outer part of hair is the cuticle with 7 to 12 layers. That the hair's armour and protects the hair, so try to keep that part as healthy as you can, to make the hair strong and to keep it that way.
You have 7 to 12 layers of cuticle that help to protect the hair, the cuticle has transparent layers about 3 to 4 inches in length and are flat cells, that overlap each other but are still very flexible. The cuticle can not be colored, but it can get stained and after a few days the color will wash off the cuticle layer, so if your client says she sees color on her pillow case then that tell you the cuticle has let go of the haircolor.
The next part of the hair, the Cortex is the heart or meat of the hair making up 75% of the hair mass & their cells are long spindle shaped, it is where pigments live in. The pigment live in a Granule and are almost pure melanin, the granules can have different melanin in them, like combos of Mixed melanin consisting of blue, red and yellow pigments where as Eumelanin consists of only the blue pigment and the Pheomelanin consists of the Red & yellow pigments. But not all pigments are on every head of hair, some like the people of Samoa and
Hawaii have only Eumelanin and that’s why there hair looks Blue black because their hair granules are Eumelanin pigments and lots of them too.
Remember that only 1% of the hair contains pigment, so what does the hair fibers do? They hold the pigments in place but also act as a prism for the pigment to show off there color, the medulla which has the round cells, acts like a prism but finer hair doesn’t have a medulla , so the other fibers must do the prism work for the fine haired people.
The medulla is the inner most part of the hair and usually is an air spaced cavity which serves no other purpose then to show off and provide shine for the hair by reflecting the color back outwards like a prizm.
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Tuesday, 07 March 2006 |
Image! More than a Haircut!
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What does it take to create a new IMAGE for your client?
Image is truly more than a haircut. It’s more than a style and finish. Image is an attitude and a mindset. And when you combine an attitude with hair fashion, you have created a personality.
When clients look to you the professional stylist for a change in their style, they are often looking for a change in their personality as well. Sometimes that change is asked for because something is happening in their lives.
That change could be when a young mother is ready to re-enter the workforce after being home with children. It could be a newly graduated college student that needs to transform from the carefree student to the serious lawyer or doctor, or business professional.
The change could be due to heartbreak, or maybe, it’s just time to take out a new lease on life and approach the world with a totally new beauty image. And, clients that are looking for a new image are ready to approach their new beauty with a totally fresh look. They are open to service suggestions that maybe would not have been previously attractive.
So, it’s important to tie the ‘image’ aspect of a client’s haircut visit into a very important service called the Make-Over.
In the Make-Over, you have ample opportunity to provide extended services like hair coloring, and texturizing. Not to mention additional services like skin care and cosmetics, manicures, body treatments, etc.
Before we explore some of the other service opportunities, let’s deal with first things first....finding out just what the client has in mind for their new image.
The Analysis
Even if your client is only booking their appointment for a hair cut and style, you MUST begin the service with a hair analysis. By looking at the clients hair with an analytical eye, you will be able to determine just what can be done to the hair. If you were only cutting you would be-interested in hair characteristics that include:
Texture, tenacity, and porosity as well as, Density,length, growth patterns, etc.
While you are analyzing, you also need to think a bit about your impressions of the hair. Impressions like:
The Natural or Tinted Color - Ask yourself:
How does this color really look on this client? Does it enhance their natural beauty? Is there some other shade that could dramatize the client’s skin tone or eye color?
IF IT WAS UP TO ME HOW WOULD I CHANGE THIS COLOR? WHAT WOULD I SUGGEST TO THE CLIENT AS A COLOR CHANGE?
The Natural Body and/or Curl of the hair - Ask yourself:
Does this hair texture have the ability to support the shape of a new design?
Does this client have to curl their hair to create fullness and movement?
Does the client have to struggle with their styling?
IF IT WAS UP TO ME... ..HOW WOULD I CHANGE THE TEXTURE OF THIS HAiR? WHAT WOULD I SUGGEST TO THE CLIENT AS A TEXTURE SERVICE?
Not only are you looking at the hair’s natural characteristics, you are also determining whether this client’s ‘IMAGE’ could be strengthened with a hair color or texture service.
The Consultation
Now is the time to discuss the client’s Image change.
RULE #1- ALWAYS. ALWAYS ALWAYS ASK THE CLIENT TO DESCRIBE THEIR EXPECTATIONS FROM THE SERVICE THEY HAVE BOOKED!
Always, always, always make sure you absolutely KNOW what the client is expecting from their service. This is very important. Encourage the client to tell you everything...
What do they like about their hair?
What do they dislike about their hair?
How much time do they normally spend fixing their hair every day?
What kind of products do they use on their hair?
And most importantly....
Do they have a particular style in mind? Do they have a picture? Is there
someone famous wearing a similar style?
RULE #2- ONLY AFTER YOU HAVE ALLOWED THE CLIENT TO COMPLETELY DISCUSS THEIR EXPECTATIONS, DO YOU INTRODUCE
YOUR SUGGESTIONS WITH THE IMAGE CHANGE.
And when you do, you have the total attention of the client. You have first allowed them to completely explain. You have listened and now it is your time to discuss their desires:
Your obligation is to discuss with the client whether their expectations are realistic....and if they are not, you must be prepared to tell them why their desired style is not appropriate. This is usually determined by limitations of the hair characteristics.
If the client’s desired style cannot be accomplished, you must decide a ‘compromise’ that is pleasing to you both. In addition, now is the time to provide the client with information on additional services that would support the achievable style and finish.
The Make-Over and Creating Technical Excellence
At this point of the consultation, you are now maneuvering the conversation, and you are providing the client with valuable professional recommendations. This is a critical time in the service, because the client is absolutely depending on you to provide them with the very finest suggestions. In addition, if you are discussing something different than what their original expectation, you have to be prepared to provide the client with all of the legitimate reasons why they should look to a different style alternative.
The Service Recommendations
NEVER POSITION YOURSELF AS YOU CLIENT’S BANKER! You never know how much or how little money your client has, and it is important to allow your client to make decisions on what they will spend and what they will not spend.
If your client is indeed looking for a new image, then, they are more open to suggestions to additional services. JUST BECAUSE THEY DIDN’T BOOK IT DOESN’T MEAN THEY DON’T WANT IT! As a matter of fact, they just may not have thought of additional services when booking! It’s that simple.
So, your service recommendations are important to the total professional make-over service. A really new image requires a really new fashion strategy. Color and texture can be an important part of the Make-Over service.
Technical Excellence in Completing the Make-Over
Now it’s time to show your stuff. If you have done your job, whether the client decides on additional services or not, YOUR job is to deliver technical excellence no matter what services you perform.
Even if the client declines additional services, you have planted a seed of suggestion. If you deliver a fabulous hair cut, and style the hair to perfection, you will soon see this client again, and maybe they will include your other service recommendations on the next visit.
MARKET your talents every time a client sits in your chair, and follow that with extraordinary service and you will develop a strong a loyal clientele that will always do what you suggest!
HOME CARE RECOMMENDATIONS
Delivering Home Care Recommendations
You’re not through yet! Your service continues until the client walks out the door. And your goal is to make sure the client is smiling, fully-satisfied when they leave the salon. They are your best advertising, and you need to make sure your signature is really beautiful!
Part of a professional service is educating the client on how to keep their hair looking great. This includes the proper maintenance with the appropriate Matrix Shampoos, Conditioners, Styling and Finishing products.
Identifying Products that will Maintain Healthy Hair
This is easy, and requires no selling whatsoever. Simply escort your client to the reception area. Walk right up to the Home Care Maintenance Center and pull the products you recommend off the shelf. If the client is with you, you can quickly review each of the recommendations once again to make sure they understand the selection and WHY you have recommended the products.
Walk the client to the receptionists desk (cash wrap) and place the product on the desk. Then ask your client:
May I book your next appointment in about 4 weeks?
Pre-Booking the Client’s Next Appointment
This is an incredibly important service. This single service can assure your future income by locking your client into an advance appointment. This one little service detail is really appreciated by the client. Why? Because it reduces their need to think about when to return! In addition, pre-booking reduces the risk that the client will go to another salon for their next service. Finally, this one little service that takes no time at all, and really reinforces your interest in the client.
After booking the next appointment.
Shake your client’s hand; tell them “Thank You.”
Tell them how much you enjoyed creating their new image.
And, tell them you are available if they need any additional help with their new
hair.
Finally, tell them that the receptionist will be glad to take care of their charges.
Then, simply walk away. WOW!! This is good Stuff!!!
Educate your Clients About Specific Home Care
Anytime you pick up a bottle of product to use on your client, simply give them the name and why you chose it for their hair. It’s that simple. If you can pull the product from the shelf when they leave, I promise you will send that client home with something! Home care is important to the health of the salon....and important to your income! Try it! It’s easy!
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Tuesday, 07 March 2006 |
Level Comparisons for CDC
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Levels
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Compagnia Del Colore
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Majirel
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Goldwell
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Schwarzkopf
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1.
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Black
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Black
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N/A
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Black
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2.
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Darkest Brown
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N/A
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Black
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N /A
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3.
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Dark Brown
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Darkest Brown
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Dark Brown
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Dark Brown
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4.
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Brown
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Dark Brown
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Mid Brown
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Med. Brown
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5
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Light Brown
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Brown
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Light Brown
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Light Brown
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6.
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Dark Blond
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Light BROWN
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Dark Blond
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Dark Blond
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7
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Blonde
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Dark Blond
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Mid Blond
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Med. Blond
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8
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Light Blond
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Blond
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Light Blond
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Light Blond
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9
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Very Light Blond
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Light Blond
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Very Light Blond
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Extra Light Blond
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10.
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Platinum Blond
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Very Light Blond
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Extra Light Blond
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Ultra Light Blond
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Superlighteners
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Majiblond
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Highlift 11
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Highlift 12
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30or 40vol
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30 or 40vol
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30 or 40vol
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30 or 40vol
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Tuesday, 07 March 2006 |
HAIR-CARE BASICS
If you treat your hair gently, it does pretty well. If you manipulate it too much, it always looks worse
An interview with Kenneth A. Arndt, M.D., associate professor of dermatology, Harvard Medical School and chief of dermatology, Beth Israel Hospital by Mags Kavanaugh
The main thing is to use common sense. Take the whole question of how often you should wash your hair. This really depends on what kind of hair you have. Some people have a more generous secretion of oil onto the scalp and so they need to wash their hair daily. Some, at the opposite end of the spectrum, can go for a week or more without a shampoo and their hair always looks fine. Requirements vary a great deal.
If you have a tendency toward dry scalp, or if you have brittle hair, it is best to back off a bit. Wash less often and use less shampoo. Finding just the right shampoo can be something of a problem—I don’t think you can simply go by the fact that a shampoo is labeled for oily hair or dry hair or normal hair. Sometimes, one formulated for oily hair or scalp seems to work best; other times, one formulated for dry hair or scalp does. So it really is a matter of trying various reputable products.
Protein shampoos, and protein rinses and conditioners, can be helpful temporarily smoothing out cracks in the cuticle (the outer layer of the hair shaft) caused by too much manipulation of the hair. The hair may get dirty and sticky a little more quickly, but that is all right, too, because it is simply a reminder to keep your hair clean. These protein-containing products are extremely effective for women with thin, or thinning, hair—they make the hair look thicker and better as well as making it easier to take care of.
Normal brushing and combing is completely harmless. It is hard to do damage, especially if you use a natural-bristle brush and a wide-tooth comb. Excessively harsh brushes—those with blunt-end nylon bristles in particular—can cause breaks in the cuticle, however, and this results in some loss of spring and luster. Fine-tooth combs with sharp edges can also be a problem because they catch the hair and pull it. But all this is only temporary damage.
Brushing or combing the hair when it is wet does call for extra care. When hair is wet, it absorbs water; it becomes much softer and stretches more easily. If you brush or comb wet hair too vigorously, you can damage it slightly. So try to be as gentle as possible.
“Gentle” is really the key word. If you just make a point of always going easy, you should have no trouble. What causes damage is all the excessive manipulation people go in for—they are so bent on changing the appearance of their hair and making
it look better that they overdo it and end up making the hair look worse.
Permanents are a good example. Permanent-wave solutions, when used properly, cause remarkably little damage. And a permanent can actually protect the hair against damage—if a woman goes from straight to curly hair, it often means she is manipulating it less, and it may grow better simply because she is keeping her hands off.
However, permanents can cause varying degrees of chemical injury to the hair if they are done too often, or on hair that has been heavily bleached or tinted—or if the solution is too concentrated or left on too long. If the damage is severe, it can result in chemical dissolution of the hair, leading to temporary hair loss.
Hair straightening, too, can cause abuse if not done with a great deal of care. People who straighten their hair use solutions that are as a rule quite alkaline, and they occasionally use heat at the same time. This can be quite damaging, especially if the process is too harsh or too frequent. And it can lead to permanent hair loss.
Hair dressings are usually quite harmless. If too greasy, though, the hair dressing can clog the follicles, causing a condition called oil folliculitis. And sometimes, if the grease gets too close to the hairline, it can mean a flare-up of acne or the appearance of an acne flare-up. If this happens, use a gel or water-based product.
Black women are apt to use heavier pomades, and they also tend to do more in the way of straightening and hot combs. There is one problem: if you use a preparation that is greasy and you then comb your hair with something hot, it does heat up the grease. The hot grease runs down the hair shaft to the scalp, and this can induce inflammation and lead to injury. If it occurs repeatedly, it can result in a permanent loss of the functioning hair follicle.
The difficulty, of course, is that the less grease and heat you use, the less effective treatment becomes. So you have to strike a balance between doing what gives you the desired effect and what gives you an undesired effect. Unfortunately, you do not find out until quite a while later that you have overdone it. Then it may take months, or even years, for the hair to come back to normal. And, of course, the way to get the hair back in shape is to treat it very gently and do very little. But when people can’t do things to their hair, they get very upset.
Most blow dryers are harmless. If, however, the heat is too high, they can also cause abuse. After all, hair is protein—it is dead tissue, but it is protein—and when you heat it too hot too often, it gets brittle.
The same is true of excessive sunlight-particularly for anyone who has fair skin and fair hair and spends a certain amount of time at the beach. The damage here is simply the result of constant exposure to sunlight and water. Wet hair absorbs water and swells. Then it dries in the sun and shrinks. And when you go back in the water, it swells all over again. And all this swelling and shrinking leaves your hair looking exactly like straw after a while.
Hair that has not been bleached or tinted can withstand the sun much better than hair that has been colored. But there is no protection I know of other than physically covering the scalp with a scarf or hat or a product that keeps it from drying out.
Traction is another matter entirely. Peopie who pull their hair back too tightly— those who wear ponytails and those who braid their hair in corn rows—can get scarring around the roots of the hair. The condition is called fibrosis, and it causes permanent hair loss. Here again, it all has to do with using common sense—and moderation. Do not bind or braid your hair so tightly that there is a constant pull.
Hair-care myths are everywhere. Massage, for instance. The blood supply to the scalp has always been a prime concern for a great many people: their hair is starting to thin and they think their circulation has something to do with it. So they massage the scalp. Well, massage does not work. Diet-presuming your diet is adequate to start with—doesn’t work. And hormones don’t work—there is no application or injection that does one single thing. Some people say counter-irritants work. They have tried phenol—stimulating solutions, that is. These are no help either, and sometimes actually hurt the hair. The fact is that there is nothing that stimulates hair to grow. I think this is important to emphasize because people are forever looking for some magic elixir, and it does not exist.
Remember that it is normal for people to lose as many as one hundred hairs a day, and for each hair that comes out, a new one will be coming in. There often appears to be a cyclic pattern of growth—with hair growing more in the warm months and less in the cold months. And hair seems to be shed more at certain times of the year, when the weather changes from hot to cold or from cold to hot—although the reason for this is not clear. Pregnancy, certain medication, fever, or shock can cause noticeable hair loss; this is almost always temporary.
All told, we have about five million hairs I on the body—a million on the face alone and some hundred thousand on the scalp. And you can lose up to twenty-five thousand or thirty-five thousand hairs—roughly a quarter of all the hair on your scalp— without any noticeable difference in appearance. |
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