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Thursday, 29 March 2007 |
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About Dr. Murad
Dr. Howard Murad, a world-renowned Dermatologist, pharmacist, researcher and Associate Clinical Professor at UCLA, holder of 17 patents in the field of skincare and has treated more that 50,000 patients in over 30 years of experience Widely acknowledged as one of the country’s foremost authorities on skincare, Howard Murad, M.D. has devoted his life to the science of internal and external skincare. A board-certified dermatologist with a thriving practice in El Segundo, California, a trained pharmacist, and Associate Clinical Professor of Dermatology at UCLA, Dr. Murad has built a patient base of nearly 50,000 people. Over the years, treating such a wide variety of individuals presenting every conceivable kind of skin condition, gave him direct insight into what his patients wanted and needed to care for their skin at home. This inspired him to develop his own line of skincare products. Putting theory into practice, Dr. Murad developed targeted formulas to alleviate even the most frustrating skin concerns. Murad® skincare’s success is no accident for the results speak for themselves. Read what Dr. Murad has to say about skincare meeting healthcare in his Wrinkle Free Forever book. Q: My skin is very sensitive what should I look for in a skincare product?
A: I’ve found that natural botanicals can be very effective skin soothers for countering everyday sources of inflammation and sensitivity. Some cause the blood vessels to constrict, counteracting the dilation that occurs with inflammation. While some interrupt the inflammatory cascade before the arachidonic acid can form the pro-inflammatory molecules.
Look for skincare products that contain:
Allantoin , which comes from the comfrey root, is often found in hand lotions and aftershaves because it is such a marvelous skin soother. It is also thought to stimulate new tissue growth.
Panthenol, a vitamin, also has a dual function: along with countering inflammation, it is also a humectant that attracts and holds water in the skin.
Chamomile (Anthemis nobilis) is a botanical that contains a potent chemical called bisabolol that interrupts the inflammatory cascade.
The sap from aloe vera leaf is not only a wonderful hydrating botanical, it’s also an anti-inflammatory that seems to boost the activity of other skin soothers.
Zinc, a trace mineral, is truly a workhorse ingredient. It protects the skin from ultraviolet light and other irritants and infection from bacteria and fungi. It promotes collagen building, enhances the effects of vitamins A and E, and soothes irritation, whether it’s caused by too much sun or acne.
Curcumin , best known as a curry ingredient, has long been used as a home remedy in poultices to relieve pain and inflammation. Circumin is so effective because it inhibits production of a type of white blood cell that triggers inflammation, and it blocks formation of one of the chemicals in the inflammatory cascade. Like many anti-inflammatory agents, curicumin is also an antioxidant.
Topical antioxidants, such as pomegranate and vitamins C and E, also reduce inflammation by curtailing free radicals.
Q: What should I look for when buying a sunscreen?
A: Your first criterion for choosing a sunscreen is that it be broad spectrum, meaning it includes ingredients that absorb or block both UVA and UVB rays. The product you choose may be a physical block that uses zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to reflect or scatter UVB and UVA rays rather than let them pass through the skin. A few years ago, these mineral compounds were not often used except on the noses of lifeguards because they were white or opaque. But today, the mineral particles are usually micronized, or ground so fine that they are virtually invisible.
You can also use a product that relies on chemicals to absorb UV radiation, like avobenzone or Parsol 1789 (methoxydibenzoylmethane). Absorbers, however, tend to be more irritating than physical blocks.
Sun blockers and absorbers to protect you from the sun aren’t enough though, you also want to reduce the inflammation, dehydration, and free radical formation that results from the ultraviolet light that does manage to bombard your skin and penetrate your sunscreen. Look for sunscreens that include vitamins C and E, both of which help boost the sunscreens’ protective effects. Pomegranate extract and grape seed extract both help keep the sunscreen in the very top layer of the skin, where their defensive action is most needed.
And finally, I recommend taking pomegranate extract supplements to boost your sun-protection efforts.
Q: Why Is Exfoliation Important?
A: Cell turnover is an ongoing process. The skin cell forms at the bottom of the epidermis, rises up through that layer, dies and is shed. As we age, this process slows and the cells that pile up on the surface of your skin are left there for longer periods of time. For a while the natural moisture factors that surround them keep them supple. But eventually, exposure to the environment takes its toll. To keep that barrier strong, you have to remove those dead cells.
Exfoliation makes up for nature’s slowdown by chemically or mechanically removing the topmost layer of those dead cells. To replace the shed cells, the epidermis then steps up production of new ones. The body’s natural effort to keep up with this increased shedding creates healthy cells more quickly.
Exfoliating is one of the best and quickest things that you can do to improve your skin’s appearance. By removing the rough cells, your skin’s color and texture will improve almost immediately, and by temporarily improving circulation, your skin will appear brighter.
To enjoy the benefits of exfoliation, use a cleanser that contains gentle abrasive materials such as jojoba beads or cornmeal and/or hydroxy acids. You can continue the process with moisturizer that allows hydroxyl acids to remain on the skin. And you can give your skin a serious turnover boost with a treatment product that contains one or more hydroxyl acids once a day or several times a week.
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Q: Why do I have dark spots left over from healed blemishes?
A: This condition is called hyperpigmentation, and it results from an inflammatory response that occurs after the blemish has healed, also known as post-inflammatory pigmentation. It is caused by the inflammation that assaulted the skin. Discoloration can range from red to dark brown, depending on your skin tone, and can take weeks to fade.
As a blemish heals, excess pigment is generated in the area where the trauma occurred. These superficial pigmented scars will heal faster with the help of anti-inflammatory ingredients such as zinc, arnica, licorice and green tea. Products high in ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) also play an important role in reducing unwanted pigmentation.
To reduce your chances of hyperpigmentation use SPF 15 sun protection product every day and try not to pick the blemish as it is healing.
Q: What is the best way to care for my dry, sensitive skin?
A: · Follow a skincare regimen that contains m oisturizing agents such as (sodium PCA, hyaluronic acid, ceramides) to hydrate, smooth fine lines and keep skin soft, ss well as a nti-inflammatories (licorice extract, chamomile, aloe vera) to calm redness.
· Daily use and reapplication of full-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen SPF 15 or higher to help protect the moisture-holding barrier function.
· Take dietary internal skincare supplements containing ingredients such as glucosamine, amino acids and essential fatty acids which boost collagen production and help to maintain water in the cells for healthy cell function.
· Professional care: Regular facials by a qualified licensed esthetician help keep sensitive skin properly cleansed, exfoliated and hydrated.
· Air filters can help, for home and workplace, to absorb airborne irritants.
· A Humidifier f or home and workplace, helps to boost hydration in the air, also great for hair, skin and nails.
· Fragrance-free laundry detergent can help. Some have found that switching to a fragrance-free detergent and fabric softener for their sheets and towels helps prevent irritation.
· Using rubber gloves while cleaning or doing dishes helps protect the hands. If you are sensitive to rubber or latex, slip on a thin pair of cotton ones first. Thin cotton gloves are also good to use for household cleaning.
Q: What exactly is environmental damage, and how can I prevent it?
A: Sun exposure, ambient light (fluorescent and halogen lights, and indirect UV exposure through windows), pollution, toxins, poor nutrition, and internal stress are important components of environmental damage, for they are catalysts for free radical exposure. These free radicals weaken the skin’s support system of collagen and elastin which accelerates the visible signs of premature aging. These include: hyperpigmentation (excess pigmentation in age spots, uneven color, freckles, and post-inflammatory response), hypopigmentation (Lack of color in random light spots lending a mottles appearance), fine lines, coarse wrinkles, loss of elasticity and tone, rough, scaly texture dry, leathery appearance, broken capillaries (telangiectasia) and sallow color.
There are several things that you can do to ward off environmental damage.
· Follow a proper daily skincare regimen that includes: Exfoliants (AHAs and BHAs) to slough off dead pigmented skin cells, Moisturizers (essential fatty acids and ceramides) to hydrate and plump skin, Vitamin-C and other antioxidants to neutralize free radicals, Anti-inflammatories (zinc, licorice extract, chamomile, green tea) to diminish redness, and Lightening Agents (hydroquonine) to fade brown pigment.
· Protect yourself from the outside by using a full-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen every day.
· Protect yourself from the inside by taking supplements that include antioxidants, Including Vitamins C, A and E to neutralize free radical damage.
· See a qualified esthetician regularly for facial treatments that include Vitamin-C and exfoliation.
· Do not tan. Whether outdoors or in a tanning bed, all tans are damaging to your skin and health, even if you don’t burn. If you can’t live without the glow, self-tanners are both safe and cosmetically appealing.
· Don’t smoke. Smoking is one of the worst kinds of environmental damage there is because the burning toxins are literally in your face, up close and personal.
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Patents
Dr. Murad’s numerous patents and patents pending each represent innovative technology offering unprecedented results. Many have taken their place as important parts of the Murad skincare picture.
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Patents
Dr. Murad’s numerous patents and patents pending each represent innovative technology offering unprecedented results. Many have taken their place as important parts of the Murad skincare picture.
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2006 | Inflammatory skin conditions treatment
U.S. Patent No. 7,018,660 issued on March 28, 2006: a method for treating, preventing and managing skin conditions such as psoriasis, rosacea, acne and many other inflammatory skin conditions.
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2004 | Free radical protection
U.S. Patent No. 6,800,292 issued on October 4, 2004: a method for treating dermatological disorders and providing free radical protection using pomegranates or such other extracts as apricots, apples, peaches, pineapples, papayas, cherries, kiwis, tangerines, grapes and oranges.
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2004 | Cellulite reduction
U.S. Patent No. 6,676,977 issued on January 13, 2004: a method for reducing the appearance of cellulite by supplementing collagen and elastic tissue and thickening the dermis.
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2004 | Inflammatory skin management
U.S. Patent No. 6,673,374 issued on January 6, 2004: a pharmaceutical composition for managing inflammatory skin conditions using hydrogen peroxide and other agents. FORMULATED INTO PRODUCT: Recovery Treatment Gel.
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2003 | Pomegranate infusion
U.S. Patent No. 6,630,163 issued on October 7, 2003: a pharmaceutical composition for managing dermatological conditions having pomegranate as an ingredient together with a hydrophilic moisturizing agent and a hydroxyl acid. FORMULATED INTO PRODUCT: Correcting Moisturizer SPF 15.
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2003 | Hair thinning and dandruff technology
U.S. Patent No. 6,515,007 issued on February 4, 2003: a pharmaceutical composition for managing dandruff, eczema, hair thinning, irritation psoriasis and seborrehea. This technology is incorporated into dandruff and thinning hair products.
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2002 | Antifungal skin cleansing
U.S. Patent No. 6,383,523 issued on May 7, 2002: an antifungal skin cleansing pharmaceutical composition. FORMULATED INTO PRODUCT: Acne Body Wash.
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2002 | Cellulite reduction
U.S. Patent No. 6,358,539 issued on March 19, 2002: a composition and method for reducing or eliminating the appearance of cellulite.
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2001 | Antiviral skin cleansing
U.S. Patent No. 6,296,880 issued on October 2, 2001: an antiviral skin cleansing pharmaceutical composition.
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2001 | Hair thinning and dandruff technology
U.S. Patent No. 6,271,246 issued on August 7, 2001: a pharmaceutical composition for managing dandruff, eczema, hair thinning, irritation, psoriasis and seborrhea. This technology is incorporated into dandruff and thinning hair products.
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2001 | Hair thinning and dandruff technology
U.S. Patent No. 6,207,694 issued on March 27, 2001: a pharmaceutical composition for managing dandruff, eczema, hair thinning, irritation, psoriasis and seborrhea. This technology is incorporated into dandruff and thinning hair products.
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2001 | Free radical skin damage treatment
U.S. Patent No. 6,194,452 issued on February 27, 2001: Topical compositions for the delivery of stabilized, non-irritating vitamin C for the treatment of skin damage caused by free radicals. FORMULATED INTO PRODUCT: Daily Renewal Complex®.
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2000 | Inflammatory skin conditions treatment
U.S. Patent No. 6,071,541 issued on June 6, 2000: Topical formulation for the prevention, treatment and management of skin conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, folliculitis, acne rosacea, perioral dermatitis, acne and other inflammatory skin conditions. FOMRULA: Acne Prone formula.
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1999 | Acne treatment
U.S. Patent No. 5,962,517 issued on October 5, 1999: Pharmaceutical formulation for treating acne and conditioning the skin cells. FORMULATED INTO PRODUCT: Pure Skin® Clarifying Supplement.
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1999 | Wrinkle reducer (topical)
U.S. Patent No. 5,972,999 issued on October 26, 1999: Topical formulation for skin repair system that stimulates collagen synthesis to reduce wrinkles and improve skin elasticity and skin softness. FORMULA: Advanced Performance Complex®.
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1998 | Increasing SPF
U.S. Patent No. 5,804,168 issued on September 8, 1998: Pharmaceutical formulation to increase the SPF of topical sunscreen. FOMULATED INTO PRODUCT: Environmental Shield® Essential-C Antioxidant Supplement.
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1998 | Wrinkle reducer
U.S. Patent No. 5,804,594 issued on September 8, 1998: Pharmaceutical formulation for the reduction of wrinkles and the improvement of other skin conditions such as skin elasticity and skin softness. FORMULATED INTO PRODUCT: Youth Builder® Collagen Supplement.
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Thursday, 29 March 2007 |
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Courtesy of the Daily Mail Reporter
Hair dye horror as student's head swells up like 'Elephant Woman' By DAILY MAIL REPORTER -
More by this author » Last updated at 19:05pm on 21st March 2007 Comments (19) A schoolgirl feared she was going to die after she was disfigured by a hair dye which she says left her looking like the Elephant Woman. Stacy Ditroia, 16, struggled to breathe and was unable to see after her head and neck swelled up.
Scroll down for more Stacy Ditroia: Hairdye caused her face to puff up like the 'Elephant Woman' The allergic reaction was caused by a £10 L'Oreal treatment which she had used to turn her hair chocolate brown.
She was taken to hospital where doctors managed to stop the swelling, but Stacy says she has been left emotionally scarred. "I did the 48-hour patch test behind my ear and there was no reaction, so two days later I put the dye on my hair," she said. "But soon afterwards my scalp started itching horribly. I wanted to tear my head off.
The following day my hairline went bright red, I felt really hot, and the sides of my neck hurt as if the glands were swollen. "I told my mum that she should still go to work, but when I looked in the mirror it was horrific. I looked deformed. My head and eyes were swollen and I was sure I was going to die. I phoned my mum." Her mother Frances, 33, a nursery manager, from Brixton, South London, said: "I was met by the most horrific sight I had ever seen. "I called an ambulance which took Stacy to hospital where they put her straight on intravenous anti-histamines and steroids." The treatment made the swelling move down through Stacy's face to the back of her neck. She said: "It crushed my windpipe and I found it difficult to breathe."
Eventually the reaction stabilised, and Stacy was allowed home but had to take steroids and anti-histamines every day for a week. She said: "My relatives said I looked like the elephant woman. I still feel self-conscious."
L'Oreal told Stacy that a chemical called para-phenylenediamine in the colorant was the likely cause of the reaction. It has offered to pay for her to have tests. A spokesman said: "Consumer safety is always our first priority and all our hair colorants are safe when used according to the instructions." The company added: "Potential reactions can be detected by carrying out the skin allergy test as directed, 48 hours before using the product, every time it is used."
Here's another story
Allergic reactions to hair dyes are on the rise
Before, during and after: Jack Taylor
- reactions to hair dyes in the pursuit of the "cult of youth", warn doctors.
There has been a doubling of allergic reactions in testing in the last few years as more - and younger - people dye their hair.
The reactions trigger skin rashes on the face and in severe cases can cause facial swelling. Researchers writing in the British Medical Journal today are calling for more research on the safety and composition of hair dyes.
They claim cultural and commercial pressures are putting people at risk, with rising numbers regularly using permanent hair dye - some of which contain ingredients banned in other countries.
Increasing numbers of people are colouring their hair, with older people using dyes to cover grey and a fashion among the young for dramatic hairstyles.
More than two-thirds of hair dyes currently contain para-phenylenediamine (PPD) and other related agents.
But during the 20th century, allergic reactions to PPD became such a serious problem that it was banned from hair dyes in Germany, France and Sweden.
Currently EU legislation allows PPD to comprise up to six per cent of the constituents of hair dyes on the consumer market, but no satisfactory or widely accepted alternatives to these agents are available for use in permanent hair dye.
Dr John McFadden, senior lecturer at St John's Institute of Dermatology, St Thomas's Hospital, London, said anecdotal reports by skin specialists suggest a rising proportion of positive reactions to PPD in skin patch tests.
A recent survey in London found a doubling in frequency over six years to 7.1 per cent in a clinic for adults with contact dermatitis, or skin rashes, and this has been found in other countries, he said.
He said: "This rise could not be attributed to an increase in occupational exposure in hairdressers, medicolegal claims, or the use of temporary 'henna' tattoos containing high concentrations of PPD - often when on holiday."
Market research shows more people are dyeing their hair and at a younger age.
One survey in 1992, by a soap and detergent association found 13 per cent of schoolgirls used hair colouring products, along with six per cent of womens.
By 2001, the numbers had soared, with two out of five schoolgirls dyeing their hair and almost nine in 10 young women.
"Furthermore female high school students and young women were dyeing their hair at shorter intervals" said Dr McFadden.
Severe hair dye reactions among children have also been reported.
Dr McFadden, and colleagues in the UK, Germany and Denmark, say a debate among professionals and the public is overdue.
He said "Cultural and commercial pressures to dye hair and, perhaps, the widespread obsession with the 'culture of youth' are putting people at risk and increasing the burden on the health services. "It may not be easy to reverse these trends, however, as some pateints have continued to use such dyes even when advised they are allergic to them and risk severe reactions" he added.
Lindsey McManus of Allergy UK said the charity was being contacted by growing numbers of hair dye victims.
She said "In particular, people have been exposed to PPD and suffered a reaction.
"They think if they've been using hair dye for some time without a problem, that will always be the case.
"But you can become sensitised at any point. We've had callers who had henna tattoos done on beach holidays which must have contained hair dye with PPD, because they've suffered a reaction after using a hair dye when they get home.
"We always advise people to do a skin patch test at least 48 hours before using any product as it can take that long to cause a reaction."
The hair dye industry says hair colourants are among the most thoroughly studied products on the market and millions of customers satisfactorily colour their hair every year.
Schoolboy Jack Taylor's head ballooned to the size of a football after he dyed his hair black on New Year's Eve.
The 15-year-old suffered an extreme allergic reaction after he applied the L'Oreal hair product.
He was taken to hospital where he was given steroids and antihistamine tablets.
Although he was told his symptoms would clear up in four days, he still had a nasty rash on his head, face and torso two weeks later.
Jack, who lives near Harrogate, had used hair dye before without any trouble and claimed he applied the skin allergy test before using the latest product.
His face started to swell and he could not believe what he saw in the mirror.
He said: "My head has swelled up to the size of a football and looked very strange. I took my hat off andmy dad took one look at me and said 'Bloody hell what's happened to you?".
Jack's father drove him to Harrogate District Hospital where doctors diagnosed a severe allergic reaction.
A spokesman for L'Oreal said product safety was of "paramount importance".
"Although extremely rare, it is possible for a very small number of people to react to a hair colourant ingredient, which is why we stress very clearly on our packs that consumers should carry out a skin allergy test each time they colour their hair," she said.
And another
Receptionist wins payout in 'Klingon' hair dye allergy case
Now: Claire Godwin
Then: Godwin resembled a 'Klingon' from Star Trek
Receptionist Claire Godwin, 23, from Ardwick, bought a bottle of Clairol Nice 'n' Easy after deciding to dye her light brown hair blonde.
But just a day after using it, her head suddenly began to itch and weep and became so swollen she was taken to hospital.
More here...
• Allergic reactions to hair dyes are on the rise
One doctor at Manchester Royal Infirmary described her as looking like a "Klingon alien out of Star Trek" and she was kept under observation after being diagnosed with severe allergic contact dermatitis.
The incident in February 2006 left her with brittle hair and clumps of it now fall out whenever she has a bath or brushes it.
Today Claire spoke of her ordeal after getting £4,500 in an out-of-court settlement after taking legal action against the manufacturers.
She claims she followed the instructions carefully and did a skin sensitivity test two days before applying the product to her scalp.
Claire who lives in Ardwick, Manchester with her three year old son Lewis and who bought the product from a supermarket near her home said: "I just wanted a change of image but the pain was awful.
"At first I could feel something wet trickling down my forehead. I put my hand up and felt that it was water.
"I just wiped it off, but later on it started trickling more and more and pretty soon it was constantly coming down my forehead and the back of my neck.
"I felt like my head was on fire. My scalp wept so much I had to put towels on my pillows. My eyes swelled up so much that I could hardly see."
"My brother said my head and swollen up like a baloon and I had to go to hospital. He was so pale and he looked terrified so I immediately agreed.
"We went straight to A&E and as I sat there I could feel my head getting worse and worse. It was like my temples were coming out and people were staring at me.
"It started pushing on my eyes and the doctors were worried. I saw three doctors altogether and eventually one of the consultants gave me a course of steroids.
"He was trying to put me at ease and making me laugh telling me I looked like an alien or Klingon out of Star Trek. I had to laugh otherwise I was going to cry."
Claire was ordered to take steroids over the next four days until the swelling started to go down.
She added: "My scalp wept continuously for days - it felt like I had ants walking on my head - and is still tender. The hair that has grown back is grey and I'm only young so this is particularly upsetting.
"I was ill for about ten days. The reaction started about two days after I had used the dye. I went to my doctors first and then hospital. My head was very sore, and the pain reduced me to tears.
"My dermatologist explained to me that I could have had a reaction after the first time I used or the 100th - that is why it is so alarming.
"It's scary knowing that hair dyes are so readily available when they can do so much damage.
"I know myself from dying my hair at school that young girls can go and pick one of these products up without knowing what's in them. There is no age limit on them.
"There are dangerous chemicals in these dyes and there needs to be more warnings to people so that girls know the dangers.
"There are vegetable hair dyes available, but I won't ever dye my hair again now. It's just not worth it.
"It's even left me scared to go to the hairdressers, as I don't trust anyone to touch my hair.
"I received £4,500 compensation in an out of court settlement from Clairol in the end, but it's not about the money for me.
"The regrowth of my hair is grey and my hair falls out when I have a bath or brush it. Even when I massage my scalp my hand is just covered in hair. It's very brittle now.
"My hair will never be the same again and I want something to be done to prevent this from happening to anyone else."
Lawyer Victoria Johnson, a partner at Betesh Fox in Manchester, who represented Claire, said: "The number of allergic reactions to hair dye has doubled in the last six years.
"The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association has been forced to issue safety advice to consumers about applying hair dye. All of this points to the fact there is a very serious problem in the industry."
Claire was examined by an independent medical expert whose report said: "Permanent hair dye preparations are probably the most hazardous materials used within the cosmetic industry."
A spokeswoman for the manufacturers, Procter and Gamble, said: "We are unable to comment on the details of this case.
"However, we were obviously very concerned to hear about this young woman's experience.
"Hair colorants are extensively researched to ensure they are safe when used as directed, and many millions of women colour their hair many times each year without any reaction."
It is understood the company agreed to the compensation payment without accepting liability. |
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Sunday, 25 March 2007 |
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Hair thinning in multicultural women is more common than you might think.
Nearly 30 million women in the United States, or one in four, experience hereditary hair thinning. Hereditary hair loss does not discriminate; it affects men and women regardless of ethnic background. In fact, hair thinning and loss among multicultural women—African-American women in particular— is especially prevalent, affecting approximately 37% of African-American women.
% WOMEN BY RACE/ETHNICITY SEGMENT
.................................................................................% Experiencing
By Race/Ethnicity ............................................. Hair Thinning or Loss
African-American ........................................................37%
Asian/Pacific/Islander ................................................23%
Caucasian...................................................................22%
Other.............................................................................29%
Source: The Forbes Consufting Group, Inc.
Thinning hair and hair loss in women is often unexpected and can be emotionally devastating, whereas, by comparison, the condition is more widely accepted as a natural part of the aging process in men.
Looking good feels great!
Women, particularly multicultural women, take great pride in their hair. They connect beautiful hair and flattering styling with their self-image and overall well-being. Multicultural women often work harder at interpreting the most popular hairstyles, since their hair textures require additional treatments and chemical processing. There is concern that these styling techniques may cause more stress on the scalp which, in turn, contributes to hair thinning. This inherent interest in healthy hair provides a compelling reason why multicultural women who experience thinning hair and hair loss find it emotionally distressing. The results of a recent study indicated that women suffering hair loss feel:
Less feminine
Less likely to succeecd in business
Embarrassed
Helpless
Less desirable to men
Socially unacceptable
Less sexy
Hereditary hair thinning or androgenetic alopecia is a natural part of aging. Normally, we shed 50 to 100 hairs a day. When hair is thinning, the amount of shedding begins to slowly increase.
In addition to hereditary hair thinning, many African-American and ethnic women experience other forms of hair loss know as traumatic alopecia. Traumatic alopecia may be due to the use of hair reshaping products (relaxers, straighteners, hot combs) or hair braiding methods.
Emotional stress makes hair fall out.
It’s about the natural texture and density
Hair texture is actually a combination of the size of each strand — fine, medium and coarse — and the overall number of hairs on an individual’s scalp — thin, normal and thick. Some multicultural women give the appearance of having the most dense and thick heads of hair because their hair strand may be coarse.
However, in terms of density, the number of hairs on the head varies with hair color. Surprisingly, black colored hair has comparatively fewer hairs per square inch than blonde and brown hair colors.
FINE HAIR DIAMETER:
Smallest diameters per strand, approxiamtely 50 microns.
Red and black haired women havethe fewest hairs — approximately 90,000 to 108,000.
Hair tends to be more fragile and narrower.
MEDIUM HAIR DIAMETER:
Measures between 60-90 microns.
Brown haired women have the average number of hairs at approximately 110,000.
COARSE HAIR DIAMETER:
Greatest diameter, 100+ and is relatively strong. Blondes have the most at 140,000,up to 150,000.
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THE HEADS - UP ON- Dectection:
The earlier androgenetic alopecia is detected, the greater the chance to successfully treat
it. Hair care professionals are now in the
best position to detect it early and to help women maintain the vitality and youth of their hair.
What can you do?
Listen carefully The first step in recognizing the onset of androgenetic alopecia - hereditary hair loss - is to carefully listen to the client’s concern. This initial conversation may reveal many of the important indicators of her hair thinning experience necessary to assess her condition—
When did she first notice that her hair was thinning?
Did she notice more hair than usual in the drain after showering, or on her piHow, or in her hairbrush?
Is the hair thinning sudden or patchy? Is the loss from the scalp or is it breakage rand? _
Family History :
As androgenetic alopecia is a genetic or hereditary condition, inquire about your client’s family history of thinning hair and hair loss. Be specific. Ask questions about hair thinning among not only her parents but also brothers, sisters, grandparents, aunts and uncles on both sides of the family.
Condition of Hair & Scalp :To properly diagnose your client’s hair thinning you must closely examine her scalp and the condition of her hair. It is important that you discuss cosmetic and hair styling practices to determine whether your client’s hair thinning is caused by breakage or loss.
Evaluation Techniques:
There are several techniques to examine and evaluate the extent of hair thinning.
Check the part :
Part the hair in the middle of the scalp. Look at the width of the part. A part that shows more scalp than normal indicates diffuse hair loss (the part on a normal head of hair is very narrow.) A woman with androgenetic alopecia has increased spacing between the hairs and the central part appears widened.
Hair Pull Test:
Securely grasp a group of 20 to 50 hairs at the base and pull steadily but firmly outward toward the free ends of the hair. No more than one or two hairs out of every 10 grasped should normally detach. Increased hair loss is suggested when more than 2 of every 10 hairs detach.
Check for excessive shedding :
If your client has noticed more hair than usual in the shower drain, on her pillow or in her hairbrush, she may be shedding hair excessively. You should check the degree of shedding for yourself by simply running your hand through her hair. It is important to note that anyone experiencing unusual, excessive shedding should be advised to see a doctor*.
Identify Miniaturized Hairs:
In the area where the scalp shows the most, look for a large number of miniaturized hairs that are shorter, thinner, and less pigmented. Unlike hairs that have been cut short and have a flat end, miniaturized hairs have a pointy end. Hold an index card near the scalp to help you see the miniaturized hairs. If you see a lot of miniaturized hairs, your client probably has androgenetic alopecia.
Changes in Daily Routine :
To rule out hair thinning as a result of another condition and to correctly identify androgenetic alopecia, be certain to ask your client about any recent changes in her daily routine such as crash diets, oral contraceptives and medications.
Traumatic Alopecia and African American women :
Many African American women experience other forms of hair loss known as traumatic alopecia.Traumatic alopecia may be do to the use of hair reshaping products- like relaxers, straighteners, hot combs or hair braiding methods.
Specific types of traumatic alopecia are-
Traction Alopecia:
Many African American have worn tight braids or cornrows beginning since early childhood. The persistant physical stress involved with tight rollers & tight braiding causes extreme tension and eventual hair loss known as traction alopecia.
The severe thinning above the ears with marked recession of the hairline is evidence of traction alopecia. Itcan accure at the forehead as well.
Prelonged practice of these styling methods can result in irreversible hair loss.
Chemical Alopecia:
70% of African American women relax their hair to straighten and add manageability.
The two chemicals generally found in relaxing products are Sodium Hydroxide or Ammonium Thioglycolate. Relaxers cotaining either chemical are used to soften & swell the hair fibers. The action of the comb, the brush, and the hands in smoothing the hair and distrubting the chemical works to straighten the softened hair. Relaxers are intended for application to the hair. Extreme caution is advised to avoid chemical exposure to the scalp.
These chemicals irritate the scalp and damage the the hair root resulting in hair loss. Although chemical alopecia looks similar to heredity haitr thinning (androgentic alopecia), it is recognized by the scarring on the scalp.
Follicular Degeneration Syndrome:
Hair loss caused by excessive use of pomades with a hot comb or iron. Upon application, the excessive heat of the hot comb melts or liquefies the oil based products causing them to drip down into the hair shaft and into the follicle.
Follicular degeneration syndrome has a fairly distinct appearance with scarring that begins in the crown and spreads symmetrically.
Loosen Up--What can you do?
If you believe your client is experiencing a form of alopecia you should try and prevent any further damamge by follwing these hair care suggestions:
Use a looser wrapping to minimize tension on the hair root.
Create Braids that are larger & looser.
Unbraid the hair EVERY TWO WEEKS.
Try using a milder relaxer instead of the regular or super types.
Use products that contain GLYCERIN rather than mineral oil or petrolium.
Keep chemicals away from the scalp area and keep excessive heat away from the scalp area.
A little prevention, will equal more hair growth & less damage. |
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Saturday, 24 March 2007 |
Don’t forget your role as a consultant...
Hairdressers often forget that the prime purpose of any consultation is to offer a service. We genuinely like our clients, have an interest in their overall well-being and hard selling techniques just don’t suit our style. Yet because of our personable nature, we have an innate ability to sell naturally, and we do this every day when we convince our clients to change a hairstyle, for example. But somehow, it doesn’t always work when it comes to color - and as national statistics tell us - it’s often a challenge for even the born salespeople among us. Some formal sales training from experts can help, so here are some ideas:
Look for a cue before initiating conversation.
Some clients view a visit to your salon as a break from a demanding schedule and so they simply just don’t want to talk. So what do you do, how do you know when to talk, when not to and what to say? Sales experts tell us to speak first and look for a response.
If the client does want to talk, your best tactic is to be a good listener. You might stop work every now and then and concentrate on what is being said. It also sometimes helps to rephrase what a person says to you, to show you’ve understood. Eye contact is also key. This is difficult when you’re doing someone’s hair, but you can at least catch your client’s eye in the mirror as she or he talks. You’ll appear much more interested.
If your client doesn’t want to talk, it’s best to smile and keep working. The best sales consultants know there are certain moments not to carry on conversation with a
customer. If you are sensitive to your clients the first time, they’ll be there next time with another opportunity to approach the subject.
can satisfy it.
A client with gray has an immediate need for haircolor. So does the client who has dull, drab hair or sun-damaged hair. But what about needs that aren’t so obvious. If a client doesn’t have a visible need for color, or if there’s nothing much new in her life to warrant a change, or she simply says she doesn’t want color...how do you discover the need. Sales professionals say that asking the right questions is vital.
Certainly, every good consultation finds answers to questions about lifestyle, available time, upkeep, percentage of gray, hair condition and client taste in makeup, wardrobe and hairstyle. But the quality of your questions can really make a difference in what you learn from your client., and the more you leorn, the better help you can be. For example, which question below do you think will yield better results.
Question 1.
Would you like a little color to complement your new hairstyle?
Question 2.
I have an idea that could really bring out the best in your new hairstyle and I’d like your opinion on it. Would you mind sharing your thoughts with me for a minute or Iwo.
Obviously, Question 2, an open-ended question, is the better choice because if gives you the opportunity to begin a dialogue with your client. There are all types of open-ended questions, but all of
them share traits in common:
• the answers are more than one word.
• the answers are not obvious.
• the question is easily understood.
• each question requires thought before answering.
It’s not always easy to do, especially when a client won’t open up easily. If you ask too many questions during a consultation - especially questions with yes/no answers - you can make your client feel like you’re interrogating her. Also, if you do most of the talking and rattle off all the ways haircolor will improve her appearance, your client just may feel intimidated.
It’s also important to really listen to keep the conversation flowing smoothly. If you get your client’s needs wrong because either of you monopolizes the consultation, it can cost you more than a lost color service. Be sensitive to what you hear and how you direct your words.
Knowing how your client might respond is a start in the right direction. Yet, realistically, there are many different personality factors that direct a consultation. The sales world, however, categorizes all these factors into four distinct customer personality types:
Flexible customers make it easy for you to direct a dialogue into haircoloring. They are generally open and are often regular clients who are comfortable with you. These clients are the most likely to initiate a talk about haircolor, so don’t miss the opportunity.Be straightforward with these clients and share new ideas. They want to hear your viewpoint.
Find your client’s need
and show how benefits Establish a balanced dialogue.
Analytical customers want to know the facts, think over issues carefully and make decisions themselves. They generally seek sensible answers and will often ask you direct questions to find them... “My perm is making my hair look brassy. Why is this happening and what can I do about it?” To maintain a good dialogue, explain as much about the color service you’re suggesting... i.e. where you’d like to place the color, what it will do to the perm, how long it will last, how she can maintain her hair between visits. Listen to this client’s “issues” and let her take the lead as much as possible.
Emotional customers base decisions on feelings more than facts. To consult easily with this client, explain how haircolor makes you feel good and find a need in her personal life that it will fill. This client is also quite often color-shy.., always suggest subtle change that will complement a good feature.
Hardto-Please customers love to challenge and make any recommendation difficult because they must be convinced before they’ll agree to it. For this reason, they’re also the most loyal of clients. Offer all the facts, show examples on other clients, manage objections (see section following(, and above all, stay cheerful and confident.
Keeping the above in mind, be sure your consultation answers all your questions, too... how much time the client has for hoircolor, what kind of color she wants, how receptive her hair will be, what kind of lifestyle she has, etc.
Recognize and handle negative attitudes proffiptly and directly.
IF you’re an experienced colorist, you undoubtedly have heard some of these comments before:
“It won’t look natural.”
“If I hate it, I can’t change it.”“It costs too much.”
“My husband won’t like it.”“I don’t want regrowth.”
“I don’t want the upkeep.”“The ammonia will damage my hair.”
It’s a fact of salon life that some clients will make negative comments or object to haircolor. But these are simply fears and concerns. Stubborn indifference is the real sales-killer.
Here’s how the experts handle objections, when trying to maneuver a difficult sale.
1. Hear the comment out. Don’t jump in right away. If you react with on answer too quickly, your client may feel uneasy, and pushed.
2. Ask your client to elaborate. “Why do you think it will take lots of upkeep”... “What’s most unnatural to you”... “Why do you think we can’t change it, if you dislike it.” The more your client expands on concerns, the more appropriate your answers could be.
3. Don’t dismiss her fears. If your client is partially right, don’t challenge her intelligence by telling her she’s wrong... “Yes, sometimes colors with ammonia can be damaging, but it’s really an issue only when they’re used incorrectly or if hair’s damaged to begin with, and if you’re truly concerned, today’s haircolors are also available without ammonia.” Your client will respect you - and your knowledge of haircolor.
4. Confirm your solution. Be sure your client has changed her thinking... “hopefully, I’ve answered your concerns”... This clarifies your understanding of the problem and eliminates the need to address it again in the future. Sometimes,
this can lead to an appointment for color, depending on the client, otherwise it’s the perfect way to begin a conversation next time.
Keep in mind... There are always some clients, who, no matter what you do or say, won’t change a negative viewpoint on haircolor. If after you’ve tried everything, the answer is still no, thank the client For listening and change the subject to avoid damaging a relationship. There’s always a chance you can bring it up again in the future.
Know when you’ve got a coffifflitifient and act on it.
Once your client seems receptive about haircolor, you’re ready to suggest an appointment to discuss it further. Here are some quick ways to seal the deal with your client.
• When the circumstances point to your client’s readiness to accept your recommendation, not your determination to get her there - use the direct approach. Summarize the benefits accepted by your client, restate them and offer the suggested service as soon as possible. IF it’s not done immediately, follow-through with a reminder note.
• Get your client into the pattern of saying “little yeses”, once you’ve come close to a commitment. You can say, “these shades are really attractive, aren’t they?” ; “isn’t it great that it only takes twenty five minutes to do?”
• Offer a special to your client... “We always give new color clients a sample of “X” with the color service.”
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There are five basic types of 
